Nissan RB30 Skyline Upgrade

Skylines Australia RB30 DOHC Guide


R32 & R33 Skyline Specific Last Update – 8th November 2007

This guide has originated from the following HUGE thread on SAU.

Please note inaccuracies may exist, so use with caution at your own risk.

Skylines Australia RB30 DOHC Guide

© Copyright 2006 Skylines Australia

Thanks to all of those who have made pictures available for use within this document which includes Cobra30

Compatible DOHC Heads

Three heads can be used for the twin cam conversion.

    • RB26DETT Head
    • RB25DE (R32) Head
  • RB25DE/T (R33) VCT Head

All three heads cc up around the 62-64cc mark.
However, please be sure to double check, there have been cases where people
have bought heads that for some reason are way off. Possibly fiddled with.

RB25’s have ALLWAYS had problems with lifters

Start up hydraulic lifter rattle is the first sign of lifter wear. It is most commonly caused by worn oil seals in the lifters. The oil leaks out over night and when you start the engine first thing in the morning it takes a little while for the oil to firstly fill up the empty lifters and then build up pressure. Replacing the lifters usually fixes this.

If the lifters are not replaced, then the wear rate increase exponentially due to the lack of oil. Eventually the lifters can’t hold the oil pressure at all and the rattle comes back at low to mid rpms. Replacing the lifters will fix this.

Eventually the lifter get so badly worn that they rattle all the time. This can lead to damaged camshaft lobes due to the excessive clearances.

So my first suggestion is to replace the lifters.

Some lifter rattle is caused by too infrequent oil changes and a resulting build up of sludge. This causes blockages in the oil flow into the lifters, hence they rattle. A few oil changes usually fix this problem, not that I think it is the case for a Skyline enthusiast, we change the oil too often for that.

Some say to put solid lifters in it which will solve the problem…
Keep in mind that a swap to solid lifters will also require a swap to camshafts designed to run with solid lifters.

lifter noise occassionally when the revs drop right down to a crazy low rpm, like 600 or less. But it clears when oil pressure returns to normal. So a lack of pressure will cause the lifters to tick abit. There might have been no problem with them originally, as in not bad enough to replace but its infact your oil pump that needs seeing to.

As some people say; if you experience hydraulic lifter tick once the motor is warm its a tell tale sign the motors on its last legs.

As a reference point the RB30’s SOHC head cc’s up around the 55 to 58cc mark.

The RB26DETT head from the R32/33 GTR bolts only requires a modification to the head stud holes.
The RB26DETT runs larger studs. All water/oil galleys line up.

b26dett head build to suit RB30

Head fits straight on as per normail RB26/30 engines,

The rb26 head having larger head studs that the rb25. You need to retap the rb30 block out to bolt the rb26 head on.

The rb26dett head, has the advantage of the front facing plenum from factory.

addition of a oil drain back from the rear of the head to the sump.

The throttle linkage mounts up very close to the same but the 25 cable is longer so use a GTR cable. Over all the 26 head is easier than the VVT head.

complete r32rb25de non vvt head with injectors coil packs, manifolds etc $500.

Fit a metal headgasket and head goes on. the problem of the exhaust manifold touching the block, so grind the manifold down rather than the block.

The issue with bonnet clearence isnt an issue with GTR’s as much due to the rb26 head.

bit of an issue with the bonnet clearance tends to hit, so i not sure either bonnet scoop or ill try adjusting it to suit.

The R32 RB25DE cylinder head requires oil flow the same as an RB20DET cylinder head. The questions are still the oil pump flow and pressure, the rpm commonly used and the length of continuous time that rpm is used. Plus what work has been done on the oil return system. So it’s not a simple one size answer, it’s more a 3 dimensional table.

At this point it is worth expanding on the discussion of RB25 oil supply. They have 3 oil feeds, one for the VVT which overflows into the cylinder head and has its own return to the sump located on the front LHS. The other 2 are the normal RB oil feeds to the camshaft bearings.

regarding the VVT oil supply, it should always be left in place, untouched if the VVT is being used. Then selecting from the 1.0 mm 1.25 or 1.5 mm restrictors according to the usage. Refer to the table for the exact details.

Have you ever seen how much smoke half a litre of oil can make when it gets sprayed over your hot red extractors ???

The oil needs to be controlled and it has to be slown down to get to the top of the engine.

i have the problem in my rb2030 its a 20head on a 30 vlt block so i gets the hi comp but my cams are 264 8.5 and ones 9.5 i think and they blow open my valves at 5000rpm ive also been told that theres too much oil getting to the head and making it hard for my lifters to bleed off
im getting prices on valve spring to suit 10mm lift cams so this should help my problem of the valves blowing open
so if i fit the 1.5mm restrictor it should be all sweet oil wise can i just fit X2 1.5mm restrictors …?

yes its a good idea
yes its been done plenty of times before
and there are 100’s upon 100’s of motors running around like this that have been fine for years
Looks like Sydneykid was right – the lifters were the cause of the issue.. i changed them and its much better now. Does not make noises at 3000rpm in 5th gear on cruise anymore.

I changed the cams as well – but time will tell if the noise comes back or whatever.. its till there if you rev it sometimes but its clear now that i have to go to solids.

get some cam seals and replace the timing belt

I feel less worried following sk’s advice for the hydraulic head.
It is worrying when you hear from engine building places not to mention tomei them selves recommending against blocking off one restrictor in a hydraulic head.
I think a final word from Proengines would be the clencher for myself.

My problem was I didn’t know of any one with an Rb20DET or R32 Rb25DE non vct head that had run with 1 restrictor blocked and a 1.5mm up front. The R32 Rb25DE and Rb20 heads are near identical apart from slightly larger ports and the larger combustion chamber/valves etc. So I wasn’t completely comfortable using the R33+ Rb25 VCT head as a comparison that it really did work without problems. biggrin.gif

But yes.. Still more than enough oil floating around; I’ve noticed I can now see the top of the bucket where as prior oil was constantly filled 1/4 up the base of the cam so impossible to see the top of the bucket.

I run the non-vct RB25 head.

I blocked off the rear restrictor as the Rb26’s are and run a 1.5mm restrictor up font.

Works fine no ticks, pops etc. Went from shit loads of oil everywhere over 5500rpm+ to a bone dry catch can. Still plenty of oil floating around in the cam covers. Prior on idle oil was puddled up to the base of the cam so you couldn’t see the lifter. Now u can.

In regards to the RB25 , why is the front feed blocked off and the rear feed restricted but with the other engines its the rear feed that gets blocked off and the front feed get’s the restrictor as per sydneykids table ??

It’s actually quite logical, VCT heads have 3 oil feeds, front (for the VCT), middle and rear. Since you have to run the front oil feed (otherwise the VCT won’t work) it makes sense to block off the middle feed and use the rear. It balances the flow better along the head. For a 2 oil feed head (non VCT) you want to use the oil feed closest to the oil pump, that’s the front one, and block off the rear one. Logical isn’t it?

we dont know where sydney kid comes up with his ideas but they have been proven to work time after time after time

I do the research, come up with the solution to the problem and then we test, test, test.

The oil flow mods were originally arrived at in 1999 and have been only slightly revised since, so there are 8 years of testing. They work, everytime, just follow the table.

In regards to the RB25 , why is the front feed blocked off and the rear feed restricted but with the other engines its the rear feed that gets blocked off and the front feed get’s the restrictor

I have a concern with the std restrictors that i pulled out of the block , i only removed the rear. The restrictor itself is of only a small orifice but its what is underneath the restrictor that i am having problems.. the restrictor is roughly 10mm long with a step down that has 3 hole in the bottom that angled into the bottom if it. Underneath that is a drian back valve or what looks like to be .

Do you remove the drain back valve aswell or just the restrictor??
If i was to but the restrictor with the valve left in place then once oil pressure reaches the valve then the valve would be shut on the bottom side of the restrictor (tomei 1.5 restrictor) that i am installing and would not let any oil up to the head . i would draw a diagram but it a bit hard to manage.. I have never seen a restrictor like this before and i am very concerned.

Kyle. I can answer that. You need to be worried about the amount of oil going into the upper area of the head and not the drainback, so just do the upper restrictors as per the guide.
i thought i’d add to this thread that with my carbon fibre bonnet, it fouled on the front of the motor. Cant drop the engine down either caus there’s only ~10mm clearance between the cross member and the axles.

One minor modification I did to expediate things down the track was to put a an extra join in the drain back line close to the head but accessible enough to get at.
Reason being The first time i lifted the head for a valve upgrade it was a total pain in the arse trying to lift the head off the arp studs as the hose wasnt long enough and it is nigh impossible to get to the back of the head to disconnect it.
Doing a cam upgrade atm and it sure bore fruit. A couple of clamps and off she comes.

I disconnect at the sump, no joins.

I am not in favour of plumbing the head oil return into the turbo oil return. The turbo rotation thrashes the oil into a foam and it fills up the hose pretty well. It might be OK on a twin turbo (as per Duncan’s application) as there is only half the oil flow in the rear turbo oil retrun. But I wouldn’t do it on a single turbo application.

Using a rb25de head off a r32 on the rb30 bottom end?

An R32 RB25DE cylinder head, is the best low cost head you can use on the RB30, with no VVT to confuse the issue, it’s a straight bolt on.
The reality is there is no need for a separate thread, it’s so simple. You can use the RB30 guide, just ignore the bits about modifying for the VVT, you don’t have to worry about that. So you can use an RB30 or RB26 head gasket. Everything else, pulley positioning, head bolts etc is the same.

what can you use on the R32 rb25de head – rb20 or rb26 cams? – Use the RB25DE standard cams with adj pulleys.
You should be able to use both but if using RB26 cams you have to use solid lifters as the ramp rates are different.

The R32 RB25DE head bolts straight up to the RB30E bottom end. All water/oil galleys line up.
N/A valve springs have less tension which may cause issues when running big boost.
Cams and springs are interchangeable with RB20DET items. Valve springs identical, cams are slightly different.

The R33 RB25DE/T has variable cam timing (VCT/NVCS); this requires welding of the heads VCT oil feed.
The head still requires oil to its VCT, you will have to tap in to the oil galley and run an oil feed to it. The most common
used feed is T’ing into the oil pressure sender feed.

Compare the pictures below to gain an understanding of how the head needs to be modified.

RB25DET VCT Bottom End RB30E Bottom End No-VCT oil galley

IF ITS A RB25 WITH VCT . leave front feed , block middle and restrict rear feed ..

VCT heads have 3 oil feeds, front (for the VCT), middle and rear. Since you have to run the front oil feed (otherwise the VCT won’t work) it makes sense to block off the middle feed and use the rear. It balances the flow better along the head.

For a 2 oil feed head (non VCT) you want to use the oil feed closest to the oil pump, that’s the front one, and block off the rear one. Logical isn’t it?

To solve the VCT oil feed problem you can remove the VVT solinoid and drill straight down the vvt oil feed galery through a brass plug and into the cavity which houses the VCT solinoid, the oil gallery on the block side of the head has been plugged with alloy expoxy putty ,when heated it expands and contracts at the same rate as alluminum which is very important!!

The R33 RB25 also requires you to plumb in an external head oil return, you can T in to the turbo drain.

The RB20DE/T has smaller ports and much smaller valves to the RB25 & 26 heads.
R32 RB20DET Inlet – 30mm R32 RB20DET Exhaust – 27mm
R32 RB25 Inlet – ~34mm R32 RB25 Exhaust – 29mm

R32 RB25 head uses the RB20DET style ports but larger.
The ports are still not ‘as’ large as the R33 RB25 or RB26 heads.
Slightly smaller ports – I haven’t been able to pick any performance downsides apart from the lack of VCT.
The ‘slightly’ smaller ports should not put you off this head.
This head is recommended for use in an R32 for ease of installation and compatibility with existing sensors & plugs.
This head uses hydraulic lifters.

R33 RB25 & RB26 heads use the same style inlet ports with the same or very similar measurements.
Use one of these two heads if you are putting the rb30det in to a R33 for ease of installation.
This head uses hydraulic lifters.

R34 RB25 heads bolt up fine; The R34 head cc’s up at 50-51cc’s
They utilize solid cams so use a bucket on shim setup. No hydraulic lifters.

The hydraulic heads can only support cams with approximately ~9mm lift before they require machining of the buckets
for clearance.

With the stock bonnet the top cam belt cover fouls the bonnet support beams.

Both GTR and GTS4.

lower the rb30/26 so the bonnet closes in a r32 gtr spaced the xmember or modified the engine mounts the cefiro rwd cross members mount/position the motor lower.

Quite possible its the same for the cefiro 4wd crossmembers. Chances of finding a 4wd cefiro cross member is pretty slim, and even then it may not bolt up.

the engine mounts from a LD28 powered laurel or R31 skyline station wagon, because of the deck height on the block the engine mounts are shorter,

the Rb30 was a australian only model in the r30, r 31 skylines and the last of nissan’s 3l stocks were sold to GMH to power the 1987 holden commodore as this was a cheaper option then trying to engineer a new motor to come in under australia’s exhaust emmisions laws as the 202 would never pass.

the patrol runs a live front axle this block could be used aswell as that from a vl or early skyline

3l gxe nissan station wagon for example.

the only major difference between the blocks of that era are the deck hieght and stroke,

Use the rb30 block and crankshaft from a vl, to replace the damaged 26 block from a gtr

get the block honed and faces machined, the crank machined and balanced, oversized bearings, new rods and pistons.

everything mostly is a straight swap, the sump, pick up , etc.

there is only so far you can lower it before the sump hits the cross-member, particularly once the 10mm 4WD adaptor plate is in there too..…Build/Diff2.jpg…0Build/Diff.jpg

Head Gasket

Personal preference.
Tried and proven is to O-ring the block and use a standard Nissan RB26 or 30 OEM head gasket.
I personally used and re-used (with a spray of Hylomar) a COMETIC multilayer head gasket.
Trust Head gaskets are excellent.
The RB30 uses the same head gasket as the RB26, an RB25 gasket can also be used.

Inlet Manifold and Plenum

R32/R33 RB25 plenums and inlet manifolds are not interchangeable.
The R32 RB20DET plenum bolts on to the R32 RB25 Inlet manifold.

R32 RB25 & RB26 heads run top feed injectors.
R33 heads run side feed injectors.
The R33 RB25 & GTR ports are slightly larger than the R32 RB25’s.

For comparisons sake, a picture of an RB20DET Inlet manifold with a R32
RB25DE gasket over the top. Note the port size difference.

Exhaust Manifold

R32 RB20/25, R33 RB25 have the same exhaust manifold bolt up. They
are interchangeable.
RB26 exhaust manifolds utilize a different bolt up pattern.

In order to bolt up the exhaust manifold of your choice you must grind
down the water galleys protruding lumps that run from the front to the rear
of the block.
They must be removed as they foul the exhaust manifold.

Short Motor

Be sure to select a short motor that has provision for the turbos oil
feed/return, water return and has both lower tensioner locations machined
flat, some do not have the machined area to mount the tensioner.
Yellow highlights vertical to one another are the oil feed and return.
The Yellow highlight towards the rear of the block is the water return.
Water feed is provided from a hose/steel pipe assembly that feeds from
the opposite side of the block.
Should the block lack water/oil provision it is possible to drill and tap.

For a street driven motor with a twin cam oil pump use the follow head oil
RB25 Head – Blocked rear , 1.5mm front.
RB26 Heads – Blocked rear, 1.25 to 1.5mm front.
Consider slightly restricting both RB25 and RB26 down to 1.1-1.2 should
the car see a LOT of track work with an N1 oil pump.
Use the RB20/25/26’s oil dip stick & holder as the RB30’s is not long enough to clear the DOHC inlet manifold.

You will have to use the RB20/RB25 block heater hose attachments accordingly. They are situated on the inlet side of the motor at the front where the thermostat resides and towards the back of the motor roughly where cylinders 5 & 6 reside.


Grind off the RB20/25/26 fins towards the back of the sump, the rb30 crank and rods have a longer throw and will foul. The RB30 sump has no clearance issues in the R32/R33 Skylines.

* Sump adaption and oil pick up.
1) Sump/Diff Adapter: There are people offering these but they take alot of work to fit/line up. Chunks of the block on the diff side of the sump ie webbing needs to be removed to clear the studs from the sump.

3) Oil Pickup, im sure there are a few methods but due to the oil pickup on the RB30 being too far back this needs to be blocked and then be tapped into from the outside of the block, the pickup on my engine is boxed and mounted to the base of the sump with a line running to the turbo side of the engine/sump. this is then connected to the oil pickup tapped from the outside with an inline filter.

I am still wondering about the SUMP adaptor, cant u just use the sump from the GTR/GTS4 on the rb30? U might have to modify it a little? Also is it ok to use a VL turbo headgasket with the 25de head? If not will an rb25det metal headgas

I already mentioned in this thread who makes the sump adapters.
yes you can use the RB30 gasket.
you can buy a VRS gasket kit which has all the gaskets for everything.

The adapter plate allows you to bolt the rb26 sump to the rb30 block. It is CAD designed to match the rb30 block to the wider 4wd sump. However there are other mods that have to be done besides just the adapter.
After that you will have to fabricate an external oil pickup due to the different pickup locations for a rwd rb series engine and a 4wd engine. You will also need to lastly modify the studs on the cv side of the sump to 2 long bolts, and also die grind or mill flat a part of the rb30 block to allow bolts instead of the studs on the diff side. This all sounds hard but i provide detailed instructions on how i did it and how you can do it, and if you are mechanical you can do alot yourself, I have done around 6 know and have sold many plates. This aside i sell the bare plates laser cut from cadium plated mild steel for $450, and if you got the rest done at a workshop it would cost no more that $4-600 in labour. So total cost is around the 1-1.2g mark, which is very competative considering RIPS will not do the job without selling you a built bottom end for $3800, and NIZPRO and AVO will not do it with out your own motor and sump sent to them and they charge $4200, theres is slightly different but I also offer different versions of tha adapter, however I am not bagging these workshops they do good work, but if you are a DIY’er then my setup is perfect for saving some money and getting involved.

If you have anymore questions please dont be afraid to ask. But i don’t really want to give out pics and detailed instructions just yet when it took me so many r and d hours to work it out for myself, like i said the other guys that do the conversions wont even sell the plate seperate cause they dont want to give away secrets!!! But like i said if you have questions about the process of fitment please dont hesitate. The plate i sell is straight forword and guys out there could make one themselves but it takes time to get spot on, and most people would rather buy soemthing they know has worked ad yeah I am not in this to make money so i basically sell the plates for what they cost me.

Cheers,My 25/30 motor is finally finished and there seems to be one thing i have overlooked, it says to grind down the webbing in the sump on the rb26 sump, since i am using a 10mm sump adptor plate will i still need to grind the webbing down?? I need to know asap as the whole motor is finished and i want to make sure the rods arent gonna hit on the bottom of the sump??

Ive never had to grind any webbing on the sump itself. I assume you mean for the webbing to clear the cross member? IF so you dont need to it doesnt touch!!
rb20/25 sumps have webbing towards the rear of the them which has to be grinded down otherwise rod cap will hit, rb26 sumps dont have webbing so dont have this problem! What the hell do i do with the gearbox since the top 4 bolts line up but the bottom 4 dont any ideas??? Thinking of just using the top 4 and leaving the bottom ones out

Have any of the guys who have done this conversion come across a problem where the bottom bell housing bolts dont line up with the holes in the bottom of the sump due to the adapter plate? I saw this on another forum where the guy made his on plate

I am going to be putting my RB26/30 engine into my gtr soon and would like to know if this is an issue


Yes, what we did with mine was to attach the gearbox to the block and re-drill into the sump extension, either that or just bolt up the top bolts dont worry about the bottom ones

So were exactly did you drill the holes into for the bottom gearbox mounts?

All you have to do is bolt your gearbox on then drill through in the sump extension, the bottom 4 bolt holes this will make new bolt holes for the bottom 4 then stick a thread in them and your biggrin.gif. We used the vl gearbox which we figured out is different to the Gtr one after as the bolt holes didnt line up, doesnt matter if it comes to it just bolt the top ones up, dont worry about the bottom ones

on. What issues have you found that are created by the extra deck height? Dump pipe length springs to mind as a ‘must do’ but what else – 38mm is enough to interefere with a/c lines, ps pump lines, rad hoses, harnesses, earth straps etc. Would be great to know how you’ve overcome these.


a/c lines = not a problem, the A/C compressor is in the same place

ps pump lines = not a problem, the power steering pump is in the same place

rad hoses = not a problem, the standard hoses fit just fine

harnesses = the engine harness actually goes downwards on a RB26, so they actually fit better on the RB30

earth straps = not a problem, they bolt to the block in the same places. The only different one is the exhaust manifold to LHS inner guard. But I always use a larger capacity cable anyway, so no big deal. Plus you have to change it if you change the exhaust manifolds.

so with a 26/30 TT config engine using all of the standard bolt on parts I need to do nothing different to a normal RB26 engine r and r except lengthen the dumps and the above mentioned earth strap, and tune? i guess fmc plumbing too..but that’s ALL?

No change to the intercooler plumbing either. But I used silicone joiners, maybe they were a little longer.
As previously mentioned, you will have to redrill the lower bell housing bolts, but that’s a 5 minute job.
I didn’t lengthen the dumps either, but they weren’t standard ones.
I upgraded the sump (Performance Metalcraft) for GTR oil surge prevention.
Plus added an oil cooler, of course.
I also extended ther lower cam cover, so it met up with the standard RB26 top cover (keeps the rocks out)

just an update guys.just fitted my proengines sump adapter. what a fooking top notch bit of kit. superb, every hole lined up a little grinding a per instructions which i have to say are also fooking brilliant. you need one buy this kit..END OF SIMPLE..bernie uk..

I’ve finally got my billet girdle finished!

It has the adapter encorporated in it. This also means my 4wd adapter plates are good to go aswell

very impressive solution shane. Are they equivalent pressure on the bearings as the standard girdle? what price?

thanks duncan, it’s taken alot of hours and money to make it smile.gif

im not sure what we’ll torque the studs to at this point, thats something i’ve gota talk to mick about. would u reckon giving more clamping pressure on the bearings a good or bad idea? or would u say try and get near to std specs as possible.

it uses rb26 headstuds as the mainstuds aswell (couldnt find an M11 ARP the right length)

Price is $2000 including all nuts/bolts & a 3mm MS template to tap/recess the block

hey shane what would you charge for a adapter like that?

for the girdle? with it fitted into a block thats been machined to suit, youd be looking around the 3k mark (including main studs)

i’ve got my machinist (different one to who machined the girdle in the pics above) quoting up on it so wont know definate prices til i hear back from him

also i would prefer to sell the whole block/crank/billet girdle as a whole machined to suit, rather than the girdle by itself, as there is ALOT of intrikit (sp) machining and measuring to be done to get it to fit properly

P.S im now getting the adapters done on the cnc out of alloy, so thats why i ahvnt gotten back to you about them yet, next week i will know pricing om them

I have also just received one of daniels sump adaptors nice piece of work! Now all i will be left to do next is modify the bottom end to suit the 4wd and relocate the oil pickup etc does anyone sell these already done??


RB30ET Pistons ~7:1 CR. Too low, you will loose response and fuel economy. RB30E Pistons ~8.2:1 CR. Nice, 8.5:1 to 9:1 is preferred depending on fuel quality.

The RB25/26 spec pistons have a smaller deck height vs. RB30 pistons.
The piston will sit lower in the bore when at TDC. Deck the block to compensate. Always measure first!

CP make a nice RB30 Flat top piston suitable, it runs a 1.280” compression height, deck the block 0.020” to achieve a
zero deck clearance, run a 0.040” head gasket all to achieve a nice 8.2-8.3:1 comp ratio with a nice tight quench that
aids low/mid range power and improves fuel economy. They have recently released a piston to achieve a 9:1 ratio.

RB30 PistonsForged piston selection Vs compression

4) Compression ratio on mine is close to 9.0:1, by using positive RB26 CP pistons.

Just make sure no one sells you RB26 pistons as RB30 twin cam pistons as many companys do.

Use a piston made for the job like CP and Arias. The correct piston is avalible so why not use them

RB26 piston sits way down the bore and thats incorrect because its supposed to end its stroke flush with the top of the block. Otherwise compression, squish etc are all off..

Ross is one piston thats sold as an RB30-26 piston that is really an RB26 piston and its a long way from the right piston for the job,5mm or so down the bore.

RB30 etc crank oil pump drive extensions are cheap in WA now, cheapest in the country and done very well.

Cubes and i are using Wiseco rb25det pistons in our rb30det. They decked the block (20 thou?), and added a 3 layer metal head gasket, and compression works out to around 9:1 if Cubes’ calculations are spot on

Oil squirters are overrated. Ceramic coat the pistons etc if you run cast ones, or just run forgies and dont worry about it

What rings are you going to look at this time around? King have a good rep with the rb30’s.
However its a must they run the HP bimetal bearings as trimetals are crap in a performance application.

Its got 350rwhp… so the stock bottom end was no up to the task ?? I am being forced to upgrade to forgies so this does not happen in the future but i dont know why i need forgies… stock should be enough but in this case it could not handle my style of driving

A lot of the rb30 blokes are running precision hypereutectic pistons with either nissan or king bearings, some run acl.

Apparently the acll hypereutectic pistons are shiet. tongue.gif

There’s a bloke here on sau s3girl, he’s been pushing 373rwkw through his rb30 running std bearings, bolts and hypereutectic pistons with a GT40 bolted on the side for quite some time, I believe rev cut is around 7k.

I just the ACL Race series pistons in my car for the RB30DET with 25 head and they are good. they are acually a MAHLE piston imported from the usa by ACL because it costs too much to make forgies in australia. I think MAHLE are the same brand as ROSS ?

my compression test came up at 120 in all cyl so its a little lower then before but good for high boost =)

i used the precision motorsport conrods in my engine as well which they all come out of the same factory in china (scat eagle rah rah) they do well for what they are (can handle 700rwhp) without any issues

Precision H-Beam Forged Rods – Nissan Skyline RB30/ Holden VL Commodore (set of 6) $1,150.00AUD (inc GST)
$1,045.45AUD(ex GST)
$1,020.00AUD (inc GST)
$927.27AUD(ex GST)

Forged Conrods are a must for a bullet proof rebuild on your turbocharged engine. This allows the stress to be taken off the bottom end under high rpm and high boost. Of course forged pistons are not essential, but are highly recomended.

Precision Motorsport rods are manufactured from certified 4340 steel, vacuum degassed to remove impurities, and multistage heat treated. Each forging is X-rayed, and shot peened to relieve stress, and all surfaces are 100% machined.

H-Beam Connecting Rods Feature:

NEW 4340 Certified Forged Steel Rod
ARP 5/16 2000 capscrew bolts standard
Silcone Bronze bushings for floating pins
Precision alignment sleeves positively locate the rod cap, eliminating cap walk
Packaged in weight matched sets end to end +/- 1 gram
Rated for upto 750 horsepower (Same as the limit of the factory RB30 Crankshaft)

My RB25 is for circuit racing only. Just turned it into a 5 cylinder with number one creating a new hole in the block. I need to go the dry sump way but cannot find any information on pan set up or specs. Can any body shed any light on the subject.
The wet sump ran wings, baffles, trap doors whilst the top end has enlarged breather holes going to two catch cans and a large bore line back to the sump including a holly red pump to drain oil back into the sump from the catch can.

You can of course leave your sump the way it is and simply plumb in 2 dash 8 fittings for the scavenge pumps. One moire at the rear of the cylinder for the 3rd scavenge stage and its done.

Most of us have used the air con compressor bracket on the LHS of the engine as a mountimg point for a 4 stage pump, like the Peterson 03-4201 Left Side, Twin Blade, Std Pressure

This is a 3 stage RHS, I can’t find my picture of a 4 stage LHS, but it give you the idea

The crank spins clockwise, so the best place for the sump valley is on the RHS of the engine, with the scavenge lines going under the sump from the pump. Chevy dry sump pans utilise the same logic

If you are building a rb30/26, but want to keep the standard pistons, the valves will clear.

The RB30 conrods (and all RB rods for that matter) are pretty strong. We regularly see 500 bhp RB30’s with standard rods in them last a fair while. It really depends on the quality of the tuning, the bearings and the integrity of the oil supply. Better quality rods bolts also assist.Plus using a lighter, forged piston helps the rods last longer.

How many standard cars have forged pistons as standard? I can think of over 40 without any problems. None of them display the issues you refer to. Most of them have at least 100,000 kilometre warranties from their manufacturers.

The real issue is not how the piston is made, but what tolerances the engine is set up with and how the thermal expansion is handled by the block, cylinder liners and ancillaries like radiator, thermostat and water pump. You would also need to consider support mechanisms like ceramic-coated piston crowns and teflon coated skirts.

The piston manufacturers recommendations and data sheets are of considerable benefit when determining tolerances.

he standard Nissan main bearings are perfectly OK, used in engines up to 750 bhp.
The big end bearings are not so good, we use Nizmo big end bearings as the standard ones don’t seem to be able to handle the combustion pressures.

It doesn’t matter what oil pump we use, they always show stress on the top shell after as little as 3,000 kilometres.

RB30ET pistons with a RB25DE head would give a very low compresion ratio, about 7 to 1 if I remember rightly.
That’s gunna make a poor response, slow to build boost, dog of an engine.

This is becasue the RB25 cylinder head has way bigger combustion chambers that the RB30 head. RB30E psitons will give 8.3 to 1 which is still not perfect, but much better than 7.

Don’t machine the crank, it is nitrided, just balance it.

what if i used non turbo pistons with better rings?

also i thought using the non turbo rb25 head would make more compression than a turbo rb25 head? or is it the same?actually i would be the same wouldnt it, also what would be the best compression ratio? around the 9’s? and using the t04 is cheap thats why lol i dont wanna go spending $2000 on turbo, well if i can get away with r32 ecu then maybe spend more money on turbo but who know,i want to build the bottom end first then make decisions from there. But help on the compression side would be good what about a slight machine the top of the block?

Can’t deck the block as the pistons have a dish in them and you would have to machine the pistons as well. This would weaken the ring lands.

I prefer to use around 9 to 1, makes a much more responsive engine. Plus, with the current generation of turbos, you don’t have to run high boost to make good power. So you don’t have to decompress an engine like you use to.

I read somewhere that factory RB26 pistons are forged, and are good for up to 550+bhp.

If there is no problem with the CR, they might be a reasonable alternative to aftermarket forgies if not chasing huge hp.

Also they have holes in the bottom for oil cooling, would they have and adverse effect on stregth if not bein cooled by the squirters?

It wouldn’t be hard to adapt the RB20/25/26 oil squirters.. Well apparently it isn’t. There is a bloke in Edwardstown that builds up rb30DET’s when I asked about the oil squirters he said he always fits oil squirters in to the RB30DET Block.


Stock rods have proved to be reliable up close to 500rwkw providing the motor is spun to no more than 7000rpm. Spoolup on SAU offers a great deal on forged rods. ~$800-$900 for a set RB30’s run a 152.7mm Rod. This gives us a nice 1.8:1 rod ratio.


The crank is nitrated from factory, providing it is in good condition, a linish is only required.
On some high km RB30 cranks the front and rear seals eat away at the crank a little, if bad enough this has to be re

The R32 RB20/25/26 and series 1 R33 RB25DET crank to oil pump engagement does not engage with the full length
of the oil pumps internal gear. Think of it as placing pressure on your rib cage with a single finger then doing the same
with your palm. With a greater surface area wear on the surface where the two gears engage is reduced.
It’s a well known issue, It is a very wise move to have a full length crank collar installed, the item costs approximately
$100 or $350 installed
A JUN crank collar can also be purchased for a greater cost..
Both crank collars are universal and suit ALL oil pumps.
ALL RB twin cam oil pumps will benefit with the use of a full length oil pump drive collar.

Engine Bearings

The Genuine Nissan Bearings are good but there is better available.
King Performance bearings, Clevite and ACL are all excellent.
Ensure you have plenty of oil flow, pressure, suitable clearances and you will have a strong reliable motor.

Oil Pump

Many have had success using the RB30ET oil pump.
It is best to use an oil pump from a twin cam motor as these provide more flow and

All RB oil pumps are interchangeable.
I’ll stress again. The RB pumps do have a reliability issue and crack if used at
7000rpm+ and high km’s without a crank collar.

Ensure you use lock tight on the bolts when assembling the oil pump as they are known to rattle loose causing a gradual loss of oil pressure.

Yep, it’s all RB’s, the block, oil feed and return systems were designed for ~6,000 rpm occasionally. Circuit, drift and drag means higher than that rpm and for longer periods of time.

Circuit, drag or drift RB’s with excess oil in the cylinder head, not enough oil in the sump, oil in the catch can, wet sump, oil surge, lack of oil, big end bearing failure etc

I get about 10 X PM’s a week from guys with this problem, I have posted up what is required many, many times. But still the guys want a solution after they have assembled the engine, it is in the car and they now have a problem. Well the bad news is there isn’t one solution. The answer is to do all of the steps when you are assembling the engine and then you won’t have a problem. There is no one magic, off the shelf solution. Buying a brand name restrictor, sticking it in the block and expecting that to fix the problem on its own is naive at best. Similarly fitting a baffle in the cam covers may overcome the catch can problem but it will still leave the others. whistling.gif

On the circuit race cars we take a 5 step approach in controlling the amount of oil that is trapped in the cylinder head and/or blown into the catch can; thumbsup.gif
1.Block off one oil feed in the block (RB26’s have this standard)
2.Fit an appropriately sized restrictor to the other feed. The size of the oil pump is one of the determinates for the size of the restrictor, ie; a high flow, high pressure pump needs a smaller restrictor. Constant higher RPM needs a smaller restrictor etc.
3. Fit an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump
4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block
5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil

It seems to me that many guys do #2, and some maybe #1. If you haven’t done #3, #4 or #5, then please remember that they are cylinder head off jobs. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block is pretty much self explanatory. As is machining (die grinder) around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil to the return bgalleries. The external oil return fits to the rear of the cylinder head at the Y, there is a welsh plug there that you can remove and replace with a fitting. Then braided line to another fitting in the top of the LHS sump wing if you have one. If you don’t, then you should for circuit and drift work.For the oil return on an rb26, can you add a fitting to the standard sump or does it need to be a custom sump? Thanx

Piston Oil Squirters

Oil squirters are used in the imported turbo Skylines to help remove heat from the piston crown which improves reliability.

Ceramic coating the tops of the pistons works well but can create hotspots elsewhere. If ceramic coating, ceramic coat the whole combustion chamber.

Adapting the oil squirters to the RB30 block is possible; however the main bearing oil gallery is in a slightly different position to those in an RB20/25/26. Machining is required to make them fit.

With regards to the RB30 or 31 bottom ends how do you go about putting the oil squirters in?

Also, isn’t there a problem with harmonics?

1. Block mounted oil squirters can be fitted, but it is a bustard of a job and not all RB30 blocks are suitable. For temperature control, ceramic coating the piston crowns and oil retention coating the piston skirts works very effectively and costs less.

2. Grossly overrated, same bore and stroke as a 2JZ, never hear about harmonics in them. Proper balancing goes a long way and the block strength added by the 4wd sump adaptor helps as well.

The castings are slightly different, the oil gallery that the squirters have to be tapped into has variances in its diameter and the wall thickness varies as a result. I have found no common ground, S1 blocks are not better (thicker/more consistent) than S2 blocks, N/A blocks are no worse than turbo blocks, Skyline blocks are no better than Commondoor blocks. Basically you buy 10 X RB30’s and start measuring, only 1 or 2 will be suitable. It is still a bustard of a job to do, takes hours and a special jig, so very costly. Even then the result is not guaranteed.

My own RB31DET has oil squirters and no I am not pullng it out of the car to take photos. It doesn’t look any different to RB20/25/26 oil squirters anyway, there just isn’t the raised section where they bolt on.

We have built lots of RB30’s without block mounted oil squirters, they show no signs of additional wear or damage when they are serviced. My suggestion, forget block mounted oil squirters in RB30’s, ceramic coat the piston crowns, oil retention coat the skirts and move on.

The bottom of a RB 2wd block looks nothing like the bottom of an RB 4wd block. The 4wd block is much wider, has many more and much larger diameter bolt holes. As you would expect to hold up a big diff, drive shafts and large cv joints for the front drive.

I am using two 0.75mm ( 30 thou ) restrictors on my RB30 with RB25 NEO head ( solid lifters ). I have done approx 20 power runs on a dyno to 8000rpm and there isnt a drop of oil in my catch can – let alone all the street floggings its got. I also have a mate running a RB30 with RB26 head who is making 490 rwhp who is using the same size restrictors and has been driving his car for at least 6 months now and has no oil problems, his rev limiter is set at 8200.
Both are street cars, not circuit or drag. We modified the oil drain back holes with some die grinding, just to open them up a bit for increased flow and apart from the oil restrictors there are no other modifications. He is running a std RB26 pump where as mine is running a JUN pump.

etting the oil piump collar is is a 100% must do. especially when using the N1 pump as there has been MANY MANY failures.

I did the oil pump collar on my engine and i still used the standard oil pump which is not prone to cracking and breaking like the N1 pumps are.

so the answer is.. YES. please do the crank collar. if you dont your crazy.NP mate. it does not require welding but it will require your machineist to machine down the crank and fit it correctly. its not a easy job and you have to have the crank out of the engine to do the task.

The RIPPS RB30 comes with a custom sump extension as well as 4wd adapter, so I wouldnt have any issues with that. It also comes with forged pistons and rods.

So the only modifications I would need to do would be:

Re-Tap for RB26 head studs as they are larger
Redrill the lower bell housing bolts
and possibly extend lower cam cover? (not 100% sure what you mean)

I do have a few questions as I dont know if they pertain just to the 25/30 or also to the 26/30.

Do RB26 Nismo Motor mounts work on the RB30? Or do you need RB30 specific motor mounts?

Do I need to worry about the oil squirters with forged pistons and rods?

Also how about the oil and water pickup lines. Do I have to redrill holes in order to use the RB26 head?

It seems to be a pretty straightforward thing to do the 26/30 conversion in a GTR, however I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row for when my motor gets here.
If RIPS is doing the bottom end, let him be your guide. He has the experience and also if anything goes wrong you both start from a known point.

He can make all the lines etc for you if you ask him, and will most likely tap the block for the 12mm head studs before he puts the bottom end together. He will also be able to redrill the correct bell housing holes etc for you. In fact, if he is doing the bottom end I’d get him to provide as much ‘plug and play’stuff as you can afford. RIPS can pretty much make anything you need as he has jigs/half cuts etc for a whole bunch of combinations, it’s not cheap but his fabrication is A1 and he knows what works. Removes the potential for ‘head scratching’.

The oil and water lines don’t need redrilling but you’ll need to account for the 38mm higher deck. Again, RIPS can make the stuff up and knows what you needed.

Block preperation after taking all the dags off and polishing everything up, send the block off to get machined/cleaned.

Now my particuler RB30 Block is on its second rebuild. Because the boreing process is increased in .10 increments & my motor has allready been oversized by .10 so this means that i will take it out a further .10 bringing it to a total of a .20 oversize over stock. (good idear to check this before you buy a RB30 Block and bring it home, as my motor will only be good for another rebuild, before you start running into heating problems, and issues with distorting cylinders). will this total bore of .20 bring my total engine displacement out to 3200ISH CC?

Also while your motor is at (INSERT YOUR MOTOR MACHINIST HERE) its a good idear to have all the centre jernals given a light hone & re-lined so that the crank sits dead straight. This prevents un-even wear on your bearings. So this is what i have at the moment:

(Guide FYI)
Machine & hone out on all 6 cylinders: $150 / $25 per cylinder.
Balancing of crank : ??? iam guessing around $70-$100
Acid clean:$70 ISH
Alligment/Machining of centre jernals: $100 ISH

So this is basicly everything you need for the BLOCK!
Note: to balance the crank or the centre jernals, i think you need pressure plate/flywheel & harmonic balancer that your going to use. so that they can balance it properly.

Water pump & Thermostat

All GTR, R32 RB20/25 & VL/R31 RB30 water pumps and thermostats are interchangeable.

R33 RB25 water pump have a slightly different bolt up pattern. The RB30E aftermarket water pump will set you back $70 to $90. The RB26 N1 water pump is anti-cavitation and flows more.

Genuine thermostats feel and look much better quality than aftermarket items. You will be required to use the RB20/25 thermostat housing to allow for stock hose positioning.


All of the RB20, 25 & 26 Flywheels are interchangeable.


The only modification to bolt up ancillaries is the Power steering bracket. The RB20/25/26 the top power steer bracket mount bolts up to the head.

Due to the extra deck height the rb30 has the top power steer bracket mount bolt up to the block. You will be required to grind the lug flat so the bracket is able to sit flat on the block. The R31 Skyline power steer bracket looks identical to the modified R32 power steering bracket. Look in to it.

Knock Sensors

The GTST knock sensors are the same knock sensor type as the RB30’s run. The RB26 knock sensors are a different type that utilizes a different bolt size; sleaving of the original block boss’s are required OR you can drill/tap the 2 blank boss’s above the std boss’s.


Use the corresponding ECU to the head you are using. It simplifies wiring, injector and sensor compatibility.
The R32 ECU’s can be re-mapped; AP Engineering PowerFC’s are also available.
Ensure the ECU you select supports the following features:

    • Closed Loop – Fuel economy & Emissions
    • Knock Sensor – Safety
    • Sequential Injection – Fuel economy & higher average power
  • 6 ignition drivers – Doesn’t overwork your coils

The R33 & R32 ECU’s will run the RB30DET with no problems for the run-in period.
However, do be sure to have it checked on a dyno just to make sure there are no issues elsewhere.


The standard RB20/RB25DET AFM’s are 80mm
The Z32 AFM (80mm) or the VH41/Q45 AFM (90mm).
The Z32 AFM supports a little over 300rwkw with the Q45 AFM supporting up to 350rwkw.


The R32 RB20/25 (260cc) and RB26 (440cc) injectors are top feed. The RB26’s run low imp. injectors the rb20/25 high imp. Injectors.

The R33 RB25DE/T run side feed injectors. The Turbo injectors are 370cc items.


A minimum of a GT30R or equivalent is required for the motor to rev nicely to 6500-7000rpm on the standard cams.

When using the stock turbo you will be required to use a longer piece of oil resistant hose for the oil drain pipe, you will also be required to bend and stretch the oil and water lines to meet with the turbo. It’s not a problem.

RB30/26 or 30/25 conversions into R32’s Turbo and manifold.

25/10 is way too small On boost its useless, just wheelspin.

If you are building a rb25/30 and want 450-500hp at the wheels a garrett GT35R 0.82 exhaust housing is the perfect choice for that hp target. you ‘could’ mount it on a low mount manifold, however you are better off using a properly made hi-mount manifold like a 6boost to gain the optimium performance. Also hi-mounts are 10x easier to work on
Could also use a custom adaptor plate to standard manifold which runs an external wastegate along with custom dump pipe

a custom adaptor plate can be used on the standard exhaust manifold to mount a bigger GT3540 turbo and a Tial 44 external wastegate.

30/25 conversion into my GTS4 and want to run a T04z 800hp turbo, but am concerned as to weather it will fit under the bonnet, or be that close it will burn the paint off it.

Another option is twin GTRS’s and a custom modified manifold based on chopped up GTR manifolds and a RB25 manifold.

. my rb26/30 has now done 2500 miles no problem whatsoever, but is under turbo,ed.
specs is as follow,

rb30 block decked bored to 86.5mm
spool rods, cp forged slugs.
acl bearings,arp bolts everywhere.
trust sump
1000cc injectors, twin in tank tomei fuel pumps.
hks drag 4″ intercooler..
1.0 tomei headgasket.
jun stage one cams 264/272 9.7mm lift.

full extreme turbomanfolds kit using a gt35r 1.06 rear 4″ dump
car made 680bhp 645lbs @ 5500rpm but drops off after 6500rpm,s

pm,ed leigh ref replacement kit as i have a buyer for mine.
thinking of going t4 flange and twin scroll.

leigh suggested gt4088r or 4294r
not sure what rears to use on either, or spooling times on either too?.

looking for 750-850 bhp @ the fly..with a good spool

——————– i run one mate in a 33gtr . homebuilt done 5500 miles in it now no probs,. search my name for threads. currently its running 2.5 bar boost on a gt4094r blower about 800bhp @ the fly..bernie uk.
ps i use the spool rods/cp piston package, proengines sump adapter, acl bearing, n1 oil/water pumps. 6 boost turbine kit, os giken quad plate clutch. car runs 8 bar oil pressure cold @ idle 5 bar hot @ idle. and it goes like a train.
here,s my old turbo spec sheet.

great result witht he GT4094R rockabliiy!

mild 2.6 – modded 2.6 – 3.0 with low mounts – 3.0 with neo head with medium-big single

So my question to you is: Why did you end up going for the GT4094R instead of the GT40R (GT4088R)?
And are you happy with the response compared to ur old GT35R?

hi guys, the gt35r was good spooled hard around 3500rpm with a 1.06 rear, it was a single t3 entry and looked like if was fading off towards 6500-6800rpms, talked to kyle @ 6 boost and to be honest it was a toss up between the 4088r and the 4094r. but there is no comparison, the gt4094r with a .96rear is a fooking animal.t4 twin scroll, full boost thats 2.5 bar by 5300, 1 bar by 3300. and it comes on so hard at 70mph in 3rd when you plant it all 4 wheel wheelspin.
fuel is pulp 98ron shell v-power. knock 35-45
power comes on strong from 3200rpm any gear. right through to 8k.

torque was 620lbs @ the fly no graph, bhp was 610 @ the hubs/wheels. and dyno chart below, haven,t 1/4 mile it yet. still on std gtr box which it will break if i do, mainly use the car for track work and road .

on the graph car ran 1.85bar boost but the wastgate spring was to weak, since then we haved upped the spring and boost to 2.6 bar, will be intersting to dyno this year.

here,s a clip when it ran at anglesey north wales at 1.3bar november 08.

shifting aroung 7600-7800 but went to 8350 a couple of times, logged on the ecu,
bov,s yes twin blitz super seqentials,cant hear them over the turbo..

fuel is shell 98 ron, 1000cc,s injectors, twin entry rail,twin tomei intank pumps feeding rail at bothe ends, 10mm return to tank..

advice/pictures on how to do the fitting to the block for the rear Turbo Drain? Looking at it today its a bit of a pain. It it very close to a bolt which goes through the sump adaptor ans into the sump. This bolt has to be ground down on one side to get at the fitting properly.. On top of that, if the fitting protrudes too far its going to foul on the axle casting… (hope you are following me here…) smile.gif

The front turbo I am draining to a dash 8 fitting on top of the wing of the sump.. so that’s no prob..

for mine i just took out the std fitting in the block, went down to pirtek and got a t-piece. I then put that in the block and ran rubber hose from each drain to the t, easy! (hose has heat wrap on it too)


All of the RB gearboxes have the same bolt up pattern.
The R33 Series 1 and Series 2 gearbox’s all use a push type clutch.
The R32 RB20DET gearbox doesn’t like the 3ltr torque, I stripped third gear with only ~180rwkw.

To put things in to perspective, the rb30det making ~180rwkw was making the same amount of torque as an rb25det
making 300rwkw.
The RB25DET gearbox is known to hold up to 450-500rwkw and is fine for the RB30DET

Engine Mounts

The RB30DET block is approximately 38mm taller than any of the other RB blocks.
This causes a few fouling issues with the bonnet when used with the high RB25 stock inlet manifold/plenum.

The RB26 inlet manifold/plenum doesn’t have these issues as it sits much lower.

If you want to run the stock RB25 inlet manifold/plenum you will have to lower the engine by 15mm on the driver’s side
and 12mm on the passenger’s side.
You will then be required to remove the lower lip of the radiators shroud otherwise the fan will munch it up.
I also found it worthwhile to relieve the gearbox and centre bearing mount slightly. In an attempt to reduce driveline
angles to an absolute minimum.

One good reason to use the RB26 head.

Factory Cam Specs

This information is courtesy of Tomei’s web site. It may not be 100% correct.

VCT/NVCS, experimentation has indicated the more power you make, the lower the VCT/NVCS engagement rpm will be. This is reflected when comparing the rpm of NVCS engagement for the turbo and non-turbo engines.

The only way to find is by experimentation or through the use of a computer simulated engine dyno package such as Dyno2003 or even better and much more accurate do two dyno runs, one with the vct engaged and the other with it disengaged, where the two graphs overlap this is the perfect rpm to have the vct engaging.

Cam Belt

I positioned a tensioner above the water pump as per the pic below. Don’t worry about drilling in to the water galley
located approximately 9mm deep as you can tape up the studs thread and it won’t leak.
Ensure the studs hole is drilled and tapped square!

Courtesy of Cobra30
Due to the extra deck height of the RB30 Block you require a belt that is approximately 11 teeth longer.
A total of around 152 teeth will be needed the Dayco part number for this setup is 94407.

Courtesy of Cobra30

Using a tensioner and idler we found the timing belt tension to be greater than the factory recommended spec of

We used a second tensioner in place of the idler bearing (lower bearing) in order to bring the belt tension down to the
factory recommended spec of 20kg’s.
This gives us much more adjustment not to mention how much cheaper a new tensioner is compared to an idler.
Use the RB20/25 lower cam belt cover as the RB30 cam belt cover is slightly taller and fouls with the top tensioner.

It is possible to use the factory tensioner and idler locations however once again you will be required to use two tensioners to get the correct belt tension.

I personally do not recommend this method as the belt comes too close together.

It uses a Gates POWERGRIP GT2 p/n 1200 8MGT 30 It measures 1200mm long, 8mm pitch on teeth, 150 teeth, and 25mm wide, it was cut down from 30mm in the factory.

There is also a Bosch belt that can apparently be used – VB-T866, I have no further information on it.

There has been some reports of a harmonic effect when using the POWERGRIP belt as the tooth profile is apparently slightly different to the cam and crank gears.

When marking out the position to drill and tap the upper tensioner do be sure to dummy it up to ensure the belt and tensioners clear both the lower and upper cam belt covers.

GTR/GTS4 Special Notes

The RB30 shoehorn in to the GTR and GTS4 engine bays is a huge squeeze. Due the the 4wd the ability to lower the engine has been removed. Engine and bonnet fouling issues occur. It is imperative a GTR style low mount position inlet manifold/plenum is used. The Bonnet support structures must be slightly trimmed to clear the cam belt cover. The GTR’s standard turbo pipe that has twinturbo written on it also fouls the bonnet, the bonnet support structure in that position must also be trimmed.


How hard can I rev the RB30 safely?

As with the R32 GTR, R32 RB20DET and R33 RB25DET S1 motors they all have a small oil pump crank drive.
Excessive rev’s 7500rpm on all of these motors will eventually see a failed oil pump.
That being said the RB30 ‘harmonics’ are overrated. They rev no problems to 7500rpm, however at this rpm you most
definitely should be running a full oil pump crank drive from Jun or ProEngines and ensure the motor is well balanced.
For the ultimate reliability anything past this and you would seriously want to look at forged rods, pistons and an
aftermarket (ATI) harmonic balancer.
Do all these things and providing you have big enough cams to support the airflow and the motor will rev and be
One last thing… Back in the Bathurst days the Gibson motorsport team restricted the RB26’s to 7000rpm. Much over
this and the motor saw a much shorter life. So as with all RB’s keep rev’s to a bare minimum if you want it to last.

1. $25- Key Rings -Pewter MFR AU – PRO’s Light / small/ universal appeal? Prob OK Margins $5/$25 Vinyl Graphics Stickers MFR AU

2. $39 DVD’s Special car oriented stuff -not Movies like Fast&Furious
Light / Small Lo$ OKmargin – Universal appeal

3. $30-70 Books -specialist turbo and Subaru WRX Dist AU Light / small Lo$ Margin? – Limited appeal $99 Seat covers MFR AU
$50?100 Gear Knobs MFR AU [email protected] – special spiders set in epoxy.

4. $70-150 Air Filters UNIFILTER MFR AU
Light/ small/ first mod for most cars, mid$

5. $100+ Clear Tail lights and Headlights AU IMP/DIST

Light / small / universal appeal prob OK margin
6. WRX Custom Headlights MFR AU SLACE 0414271674 $xxx Lights -Strut Braces- Dials DIST AU 6.********$250 ea Brake Rotors -Slotted & Crossdrilled MFR AU Great product but hi$ -heavy / large/ Universal fitment Margin?
7 $1500 -2500 Intercoolers / Turbos MFR AU
PRO’s= well dev Aust made but $$$’s Large / heavy Margin maybe OK
8 $100 – 2000 Suspension components WRX MFR AU
GEN MFR AU GEN MFR AU PRO’s = well dev product ranges CON’s Heavy / large/
9. $250-450 Blow off valves – MFR AU PRO’s = Light / small/ first mod to turbo cars after airpod filter. Cons mid$$$’s
10. $1000-2000 ECU’s – Car Computer Elec Fuel Control Systems
MFR AU MFR AU – mentioned in Fast&Fur. MFR AU DIST AU WRX’s =LIght weight / small / good margin maybe / Good reputation. 5 or 6 makes available mfd Au CONS Hi$


Thanks to Skylines Australia for making my RB30DET and this guide a reality.
A really big thanks to all those over at SAU, especially Christian (Prank) for spending his hard earned $$ on SAU and
Skylines Downunder who have also shared their knowledge.

Head over to the current RB30 Thread at Skylines Australia.
I am sure you will be thankful for this guide when you check out how large the thread is.

A big thaks to all those that have done the rb30det combination In the past and taken pictures, some of those I have
included in this guide

Turbo Car Club

Nissan Silvia S13 JDM Japan

A Brief glance at some distance, and you could be forgiven for mistaking the Silvia S13 series for a Skyline R32. Coming closer though it becomes obvious that it is not “Godzilla” at all, but a smaller though potent imitator.

 The Silvia is well spec’d for performance with the powerful SR20 in later years variants, with the turbo version able to be modified to double the output at little cost.

The Nissan S13 Silvia, produced in 1988 for the 1989 model year, was offered with four-wheel steering, known as HICAS-II. The S13 was one of the first uses of Nissan’s multi-link rear suspension. The S13 also saw the introduction of a viscous-type limited slip differential for some models. The S13 Silvia used fixed headlights with the provision to change lamps as well as Projector optics as an option.


“Strawberry Face” S13 Silvia with the much later S15 Silvia Guards, bonnet and front panel clip.


S13 ‘Onevia’ with the 180SX Model front panels.


180SX  ‘Onevia’ with the S13 front panels


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Turbo Car Club Nissan GT-R NISMO GT3


Newly evolved Nissan GT-R NISMO GT3 development car to participate in VLN round 7 (SP-X class) at Nürburgring as part of its test program

? September 22, 2017
? Development driver, Michael Krumm and Nürburgring veteran, Tom Coronel to take the wheel

YOKOHAMA, Japan (September 22, 2017) – Nissan Motorsports International (NISMO) today announced that it will be participating in round 7 of the VLN, to be held at Nürburgring, Germany, as part of its test program for the newly evolved Nissan GT-R NISMO GT3 that is currently under development.
The newly evolved Nissan GT-R NISMO GT3 development car, built in accordance with FIA GT3 regulations, has undergone tests in Japan and this VLN participation is to act as an opportunity to further develop the car and collect real race data. Due to competing with a vehicle that is still currently under development, the entry will be into the “SP-X” class (for modified cars) and it will be driven by development driver, Michael Krumm (Germany) and Tom Coronel (Netherlands), who competed in last year’s 24 Hours of Nürburgring in the Nissan GT-R NISMO GT3.
Yuzo Ishikawa (NISMO Corporate Vice President in charge of Development) comment
“This time our goal for participation in the VLN is to advance the development program of the car one step further and collect data in actual race conditions. In addition to the valuable data that we can attain from racing at a circuit like Nürburgring, that takes such a heavy toll on a race car, we will also be able to use the feedback from Michael, who is well acquainted with the GT-R and Tom, who has a wealth of experience at this circuit, and continue to improve and build up a GT-R that will remain the car of choice for discerning customers.”
September 22, 2017
For more details, please refer to


Turbo Car Club

Mazda6 Turbo Diesel dominating INDY!

Diesels Return to Indy After 60 Years – AND WIN

Mazda 6 SKYACTIV-D Clean Diesel wins at the Brickyard

Text By: Agustin Jimenez, Monica Gonderman

It’s been over 60 years since a diesel powered race car hit the track at Indy but this week, Mazda is bringing the heat to the Brickyard with their Mazda-6 SKYACTIV-D Clean Diesel Race Car. The last diesel to compete at Indy was the 1952 Cummins Diesel Special #28 Indycar and it shocked everyone and demonstrated how powerful a diesel engine could be by breaking lap time records right off the first lap of qualifying.

60 years later, Mazda is bringing diesels back to the Brickyard for this week’s Grand-Am race in Indianapolis, Indiana. The Mazda-6 Grand-Am GX cars are powered by a SKYACTIV-D Clean Diesel 2.2-liter inline-4 cylinder dual-turbo common rail, direct injected diesel engine that produces 400 horsepower at 5000 RPM as well as 445 pound feet of torque at 3600 RPM.

[EDIT by Turbox:  This is courtesy of  Twin Turbochargers: Series Turbocharged
Honeywell Turbo Technologies (Garrett) Turbochargers
-GTR3776R Low Pressure Stage
-GTR2560R High Pressure Stage
And the appropriate tubing modifications to support efficient intake airflow at an unknown level of boost control! ]

2014 Mazda 6 SKYACTIV D Clean Diesel Grand AM GX Engine

Although the Mazda-6 Grand-Am cars are far more technologically advanced than the 1952 Cummins Diesel Special race car, they both share the same vision of showing up to Indy with a diesel than can run circles around the competition while testing production technology in the harshest of environments.

While most people correctly associate racing with fast cars, it is far more complex than just raw speed. The best race cars have been modified for efficiency in every conceivable area. Decreasing weight, friction, and aero drag are key elements to performance. Less obvious to non-race fans is the fact that better fuel economy can mean the difference between winning and losing as fewer pit stops can often determine the winner in endurance races.

The all-new SKYACTIV-D Clean Diesel engine in the all-new Mazda-6 is a true production based engine. The engine is 51 percent stock by parts count, and 63 percent stock by weight. Mazda chose this path as it is the most honest way to demonstrate the quality, durability, and reliability of Mazda cars.

“This year has been one for the record books. In January, our SKYACTIV-D Clean Diesel Mazda6 became the first diesel racecar to ever compete at Daytona. In April, we became the first ever diesel to score a Grand-Am win at Road Atlanta. Now, we are about to bring clean diesel to one of the most famous proving grounds in the world, the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. Being students of motorsports heritage, it wasn’t lost on us that the last diesel to compete at Indy, a Cummins, made a strong impact in the 1950’s, hence our interest in looking at the state of the art from the past with our latest innovation,” noted John Doonan, Motorsports Director, Mazda North American Operations.

2014 Mazda 6 SKYACTIV D Clean Diesel Grand AM GX Green Car

Mazda-6 Grand-Am GX Specs:
Engine: Mazda SKYACTIV-D Clean Diesel
Configuration: Inline 4 Cylinder Turbo Diesel
Displacement: 2.2L (2191cc) Bore: 86.0 mm Stroke: 94.3 mm
Power: 400 horsepower at 5000 RPM – Grand-Am GX class target
Torque: 445 pound feet of torque at 3600 RPM
Fuel System: Common Rail, Direct Injection
Turbochargers: Series Turbocharged
Honeywell Turbo Technologies (Garrett) Turbochargers
-GTR3776R Low Pressure Stage
-GTR2560R High Pressure Stage
Transmission: EMCO 46P1 Transaxle
Clutch: Quarter Master
Suspension: Double A-Arm Front and Rear
Dampers: Dynamics DSSV
Brakes: Alcon
-Front: 355mm Disc, Monoblock 4-piston Caliper
-Rear: 328mm Disc, 4-piston Caliper
Wheels: BBS 1-piece Aluminum
Tires: Continental Racing Slicks (GRAND-AM Spec Tire)
Front: 285/645R18 Rear: 305/645R18
Weight: 1111 kg (2450 lb) — GX class minimum
Weight Bias: 50:50
Dimensions: Length: 4935 mm (194.3 inches)
Height: 1298 mm (51.1 inches)
Width: 1880 mm (74.0 inches)

Read more: Turbo Car Club

Nissan Dealer List Australia

Action Nissan

Administration, Parts & Service

New & Used Vehicles

Bruce Hwy (cnr Oak St) Gympie 4570
(07) 5482 1711

Barossa Nissan
30 Murray St Nuriootpa 5355
(08) 8562 2411

Berwick Nissan

2 -12 Clyde Rd Berwick 3806
(03) 9796 1777

(03) 9707 4166

[email protected]

Brighton Nissan

Bentleigh 931 Nepean Hwy 3204
(03) 9563 9977

Bunbury Nissan

41 Spencer St
(08) 9721 1611

Service Direct
(08) 9721 8168

Spare Parts Direct
(08) 9721 1577

98a King Rd, Bunbury

Bundaberg Nissan

Bourbong St (cnr Walla St) Bundaberg 4670
More information about this business
(07) 4152 0000

(07) 4152 0109

[email protected]

Camberwell Nissan

Sales Service & Spare Parts 565 Camberwell Rd Camberwell 3124
(03) 9809 0922

Chadstone Nissan

Sales, Service & Spare Parts

Huntingdale Rd (cnr Dandenong Rd) Oakleigh 3166
(03) 9252 5000

(03) 9252 5012

City Nissan

Sales 19 -35 Flemington Rd North Melbourne 3051
(03) 8383 1111

Service & Parts 189 Arden St North Melbourne 3051
(03) 8383 8822

Cleveland Nissan

45- 51 Shore St Cleveland 4163
More information about this business
(07) 3286 2501

Cullen Nissan
180 Parramatta Rd Burwood 2134
(02) 9701 0144

Dalby Nissan

36 Drayton St Dalby 4405
(07) 4662 2422

[email protected]

Dandenong Nissan

46 Lonsdale St Dandenong 3175
(03) 9792 9922

Spare Parts
(03) 9792 9311

Duncan Nissan

501 Albany Hwy Victoria Park 6100
(08) 9262 0000

Parts Direct Line
(08) 9470 3464

(08) 9361 4419

[email protected]

Eden Nissan

New & Used Vehicles

Eden 113 Princes Hwy 2551
(02) 6496 1420

Emerald Nissan

PO BOX 252 Emerald QLD 4720

21 -23 Gregory Hwy Emerald Sales 4720
(07) 4987 7900

Parts & Service
(07) 4982 2855

(07) 4982 2801

Essendon Nissan

144 Keilor Rd Essendon North 3041
(03) 9379 6643

Spare Parts FAX
(03) 9379 9555

Fennessy Nissan
(See Fennessy’s)

Gaukroger Nissan

1 Oliver St Inverell 2360
(02) 6722 2722

Goldfields Nissan

Nissan Dealer

187 Boulder Rd Kalgoorlie 6430
(08) 9021 5999

(08) 9091 4433

(08) 9021 2504

(08) 9021 2125

(08) 9021 7314

Gove Nissan
Arnhem Rd (cnr Matthew Flinders Way) Nhulunbuy 0880
(08) 8987 1911

Grand Nissan

Home Of the One Cent Oil Change

345 Main South Rd Morphett Vale 5162
More information about this business
(08) 8326 3377

(08) 8326 3124

Service Line
(08) 8326 3277

[email protected]

Highway Nissan

Highway Nissan Springwood

3481 Pacific Hwy (cnr Carlyle St) Springwood 4127
(07) 3290 7888

Highway Nissan Central

Service 68 Ipswich Rd (cnr Balaclava St) Woolloongabba 4102
(07) 3891 0888

Hornsby Nissan

60 Pacific Hwy Wtara

(02) 9473 7111

(02) 9473 7171

(02) 9487 3802

Jason Nissan

Dobney Ave Wagga Wagga 2650
(02) 6925 3211

Service Dept
(02) 6925 3211

Spare Parts Direct
(02) 6925 4453

Kempstar Nissan


105 Smith St Kempsey 2440
(02) 6562 7744

Lakeside Nissan

1195 Main North Rd Pooraka 5095
(08) 8200 6000

(08) 8200 6022

[email protected]

Lismore Nissan

Lismore Kia

PO Box 88 LISMORE NSW 2480

76 -80 Ballina St Lismore 2480
(02) 6621 2599

(02) 6621 8999

[email protected]

After Hours

Paul O’Neill
0414 662 872

Warren Richards
0414 251 233

Bruce Strong
0416 241 094

Rick Hunter
0404 487 881

0404 442 900

Liverpool Nissan
433 Macquarie St Liverpool 2170
(02) 9601 5777

Macarthur Nissan

4 Mill Rd Campbelltown 2560
(02) 4625 8344

Direct Parts
(02) 4625 1050

Magic Nissan


[email protected]

Sales 164 Leach Hwy Melville Sales 6156
(08) 9330 6666

Mandurah Nissan
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Merredin Nissan

1 Mary St Merredin 6415
(08) 9041 1577

(08) 9041 1426

[email protected]

Metro Nissan

Sales, Finance, Service, & Parts

150 Lutwyche Rd
(07) 3866 9701

Moora Nissan
89 Gardiner St Moora 6510
(08) 9651 1207

Moorooka Nissan

917 Ipswich Rd Moorooka 4105
(07) 3848 7811

(07) 3848 8378

[email protected]

Moree Nissan


Heber St (cnr Boston St) Moree 2400
(02) 6752 1855

(02) 6752 1298

[email protected]

Mornington Nissan

109 Mornington-Tyabb Rd Mornington 3931
(03) 5975 7448

[email protected]


South Coast Nissan

(Formerly Harry Moore Nissan)

139 Wharf St Tweed Heads 2485
(07) 5506 9000

Nissan – Maitland Nissan

173 Newcastle St East Maitland 2323
(02) 4931 3333

(02) 4931 3344

Nissan Bega
106-108 Gipps St Bega 2550
(02) 6492 1099

Nissan Belconnen

National Capital Motors

Josephson St Belconnen 2617
(02) 6256 3300

(02) 6251 1901

Visit us Online at:

Nissan Eden

New & Used Vehicles

Eden 113 Princes Hwy 2551
(02) 6496 1420

Nissan Finance
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We have found multiple listings that match this name in the following regions.
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Nissan Gaukroger

1 Oliver St Inverell 2360
(02) 6722 2722

Nissan Gladstone
9 Toolooa St Gladstone 4680
1800 814 901

Nissan Gunnedah

New & Used Vehicle Sales

(Gunnedah Automotive) 76 Marquis St Gunnedah 2380
(02) 6742 2499

Nissan Hardman
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Nissan Here
9 Dunstans Thomastown 3074
(03) 9357 1111

Nissan Highway


3481 Pacific Hwy (cnr Carlyle St) Springwood 4127
(07) 3290 7888


68 Ipswich Rd Woolloongabba 4102
(07) 3891 0888

Nissan Jason
44 Dobney Ave Ashmont 2650
(02) 6925 6849

Nissan Kloster
(see Kloster Group)

Nissan Lander
(see Lander Motor Group)

Nissan Liquor Pty Ltd
207 Miller Rd Villawood 2163
(02) 9726 2848

Nissan Maryborough

New & Used Cars Sales, Service & Finance

70 Ferry St Maryborough 4650
(07) 4123 0000

Nissan Metro

Sales, Finance, Service, & Parts

150 Lutwyche Rd
(07) 3866 9701

Nissan Moree
(see Moree Nissan)

Nissan Moruya
76 Princes Hwy Moruya 2537
(02) 4474 3444

Nissan Motors
(see Motors Pty Ltd)

Nissan Motors Pty Ltd

Authorised Dealer

Elizabeth St (Cnr Bathurst St) Launceston 7250
(03) 6332 9101

(03) 6332 9189

Nissan Ryde

771 -775 Victoria Rd Ryde 2112
(02) 9850 1288

Nissan Tuncurry
(see Great Lakes Nissan)

Nissan Westpoint


Indooroopilly 440 Moggill Rd 4068
(07) 3878 0440


Indooroopilly 440 Moggill Rd 4068
(07) 3878 0466

Nissan Wrecking

94 Musgrave Rd Coopers Plains 4108
More information about this business
(07) 3277 8926

[email protected]

Nissan Zupps
(see Zupps Group Of Companies)

Nissan- John Oxley Nissan
(see John Oxley Motors)

Nomad Nissan

8 Wenban Pl Wetherill Park 2164
(02) 9609 7499

1800 249 923

Northern Nissan

Vehicle Sales, Parts & Service

429 -443 Grimshaw St Bundoora 3083
(03) 9466 5888

Northside Nissan

Wanneroo Rd (entrance 14 Berriman Drv) Wangara 6065
(08) 9409 0000

(08) 9409 1759

[email protected]

Sales Enquiries
(08) 9409 0000

Service Department

(08) 9409 0150

[email protected]

Parts Department

(08) 9409 0160

Oakleigh Nissan
(Now Chadstone Nissan)

Pace Nissan
Alexander Ave Taren Point 2229
(02) 9524 1400

Parkes Nissan

138 -144 Clarinda St Parkes 2870
(02) 6862 1111

(02) 6862 4204

Sales Email

[email protected]

Service Email

[email protected]

Parramatta Nissan

“Auto Alley”

Church St (cnr Raymond St) Parramatta 2123
(02) 9912 2020

(02) 9912 2022

service & parts

3 Grand Ave Camellia 2142
(02) 8844 4488

Visit us online at:

Passlow Nissan

Hamilton 67 Cox St 3300
(03) 5571 1100

Spare Parts Hotline
(03) 5571 2073

[email protected]

Penrith Nissan

2128- 2140 Castlereagh Rd Penrith 2750
(02) 4724 5555

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Randwick Nissan
265 Avoca St Randwick 2031
(02) 9398 7666

Robinson Nissan

371 Princes Hwy Rockdale 2216
(02) 9597 2200

(02) 9597 2174

(02) 9597 2047

(02) 9597 1155

(02) 9597 6040

Visit Us Online

[email protected]

Smithton Nissan

Service & Parts Manager Peter Arnold

Mobile Service
0418 882 924

Sales Jari Hansen
0417 284 071

Springwood Nissan
(see Blue Mountains Motor Group)

Taree Nissan

100 Manning River Drive

(02) 6592 6388

(02) 6592 6392

(02) 6592 6395

Thompson Nissan
1 Benalla Rd Shepparton 3630
(03) 5821 9411

Total Nissan
(See Total Auto’s)

Total Nissan

Motor Vehicle Dealers Cannington

1251 Albany Hwy (cnr Hamilton St)

(08) 9351 4444

1800 674 751

(08) 9350 5970

(08) 9351 4480

(08) 9351 4490

1800 198 093

[email protected]

Trevaskis Nissan
(see Thompson Nissan)

Unley Nissan

Hyde Park 284- 288 Unley Rd 5061
(08) 8306 7777

(08) 8306 7700

Visit us online

[email protected]

Wagmac Nissan

Now Trading As United Equipment

13 1607

PO Box 226 Dingley VIC 3172

6 Garden Blv Dingley Village 3172
(03) 9551 0655

(03) 9551 0455

Visit Us Online

Werribee Nissan

14- 26 Heaths Rd Hoppers Crossing 3029
(03) 9974 5800

Service Department
(03) 9974 5802

Spare Parts
(03) 9974 5803

(03) 9974 5825

Nissan GT-R 545-hp twin-turbo V6

Nissan GTR


3.8-liter twin-turbocharged 24-valve V6 engine

Press the Nissan GT-R® accelerator and you feel more than raw power. The 545-hp twin-turbo V6 may be massive in strength, yet it’s highly refined, even earning ULEV-II emissions rating. Rather than traditional cast-iron liners, each cylinder features a unique plasma coating on cylinder walls, with an independent intake system for each bank of cylinders. The powerful twin turbo takes advantage of a Premium Midship (PM) design for balance, where much of the engine sits back in the chassis. Uniquely brilliant, built to perform.

Dual clutch 6-speed transmission with three driver-selectable modes

Two clutches, no clutch pedal. The GT-R® 6-speed sequential dual-clutch transmission shifts as quickly as 0.15 seconds when in R-Mode. Inside are separate clutches for the odd and even gears. When in an odd-numbered gear, the adjacent even-numbered gear is “pre-selected,” ready to make the shift immediately. Then, to achieve ideal front-to-rear weight distribution, the GT-R® clutches, transmission and transfer case are mounted in the rear of the chassis, creating the world’s first independent rear transaxle for an All-Wheel Drive vehicle.

ATTESA E-TS® All-Wheel Drive (AWD)

Instead of the traditional 50/50 torque split between front and rear axles, GT-R’s electronically controlled All-Wheel Drive system provides up to 100% of available torque to the rear wheels, and can send up to 50% of torque to the front wheels. This provides the steering feel and response of a rear-wheel vehicle, while giving the added confidence that only AWD can offer.

Exclusively developed track-tuned suspension

In addition to the Bilstein® DampTronic® suspension’s computerized control, the Track Edition has specially tuned shock absorbers and springs. The system has three driver-selectable driving modes and constantly monitors vehicle speed, lateral acceleration, torque, engine rpm, and braking behavior to help provide the ideal ride/handling balance. To match the precision of the other suspension components, high-accuracy progressive-rate springs were developed and manufactured to extremely high tolerances. [*]

Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) with three driver-selectable modes

Most stability control systems cut engine power or apply the brakes when they sense a loss of control. That’s fine for the road, but slow going in competition conditions. While cornering with the advanced Vehicle Dynamic Control (VDC) system in R-Mode, it actually sends more power to the appropriate wheels when it senses oversteer or understeer, helping to keep it on the steered course, a much quicker way to go in track conditions. [*]

Carbon-fiber air inlets in the front spoiler and additional front/rear brake cooling guides

Heat: mortal enemy of the braking system. To help dissipate the extreme heat generated in the brakes under track circumstances, the 2014 GT-R® has new carbon-fiber air inlets in the front spoiler to feed the front brake cooling guides. We’ve also added cooling guides for the rear brakes.



High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlights

High Intensity Discharge headlights employ three more sub-reflectors than conventional headlights, providing the GT-R® with wider, stronger illumination coverage.

LED Daytime Running Lights

Make a visual statement with powerful LED Daytime Running Lights. Twelve high-intensity lights enhance the look of your GT-R® and increase vehicle presence when the headlights are off.

20″ Special black super-lightweight forged-alloy RAYS® wheels

20″ super-lightweight black aluminum forged RAYS® wheels have knurled beads that help keep tires from slipping around the wheels under hard acceleration.[*]

Exclusively developed tires, nitrogen-filled at factory

Consider everything you expect from a tire—great grip, smooth ride, consistent performance—then add the necessity of taming 545 horsepower along with one of the most advanced powertrains and responsive suspensions Nissan has ever built. The Dunlop® SP Sport MAXX GT600 DSST CTT high-performance tires are filled with nitrogen, rather than conventional air, because nitrogen significantly reduces pressure changes during high-performance driving. [*]

Premium Midship (PM) platform with hybrid unibody

By using a powerful twin-turbo V6 rather than a larger and heavier V8 or V12, the Nissan GT-R® exploits its PM design for ultimate balance. In the PM design, much of the engine sits well back in the chassis behind the front axle—for crisper turn-in, quick steering response and overall balance. The lighter, more compact engine also pays dividends in performance and other interior room.

Dry carbon-fiber rear spoiler

The Track Edition’s rear spoiler is as breathtaking to the eye as it is slippery to the wind. Hand made in a limited monthly production run, the lightweight carbon fiber is also incredibly strong. To make it a feast for the senses, a special coating allows you to feel the weave of the carbon fiber. [*]

Aerodynamic undertrays with vented carbon-fiber composite rear diffuser

One of the greatest Nissan GT-R® aerodynamic breakthroughs is nearly invisible. With traditional vehicles, air hitting components underneath the vehicle creates drag – slowing the car and creating lift—reducing grip and traction. By using a series of composite panels beneath the Nissan GT-R® (a technique derived from racecars), cooling air can be channeled to the running gear, while the underside remains clear of obstructions, creating downforce that literally pulls the car to the road.

Dual heated body-color power folding outside mirrors

The GT-R® outside mirrors are power-adjustable, heated, and they fold in to stay out of the way when you are parking in a tight spot.

2013 Nissan GT-R Turbo Car Club

Nissan GT-R (R35) conforms to FIA GT3 regs 2013 Model Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3.

The 2013 Model
Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3 Released

The 2013 Model Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3 Prototype

TOKYO, Japan (November 13, 2012) – Nissan Motorsports International Co., Ltd. (Nismo) is pleased to announce the official release of a Nissan GT-R (R35) that conforms to FIA GT3 regulations: the 2013 Model, Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3.
The 2012 model, Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3, which debuted this March, has brought back race victories from across the globe. Entered by NDDP RACING (Nismo) as well as customer racing teams, the GT-3 has outperformed the competition at this year’s SUPER GT series (GT 300 class), Super Taikyu (GT3 class), British GT Championship and GT Cup. Nismo has developed the 2013 Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3 using all the valuable data brought back from these races, in addition to the dyno, track tests, and customer feedback, to enhance its competitiveness and performance. Most significant improvements were made to the following crucial points:

2013 Nissan GT-R

Engine performance & durability

Aerodynamic performance

Brake balance

Suspension setting to suit new aerodynamics package

Gear ratio to optimize engine output increase

Engine is the biggest contribution to performance enhancement, which includes new camshaft timing. Moving parts of the engine were also reinforced to guarantee durability. Several modifications were made to enhance aerodynamics: canards were added to the front and the front fender louvers were enlarged. The positioning of the rear wing was optimized. These changes improved aerodynamic balance between front and rear, and increased downforce, which enhanced overall aerodynamic performance.
The 2013 model, Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3 is manufactured on demand. Orders will be accepted from November 13, 2012 on. Should the number of orders exceed production capacity, Nismo retains the right to make final decisions on order fulfillment.
Nismo is currently preparing an update kit for the 2012 model, Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3.
Sales and customer support for the Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3 will be implemented by Nismo for Japan, Asia, North America, South America, and Oceania, whilst our project partner, JRM, will continue to cover Europe, Russia and the Middle East, in the same way as 2012 Model.
For more details, please refer to
Enquiries should be made to either Nismo or JRM.

Specifications of the 2013 Model, Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3




1,300kg *

Engine model


405kw or higher @ 6,500rpm (550ps or higher @ 6,500rpm) *

637N?m or higher @ 5,000rpm (65.0kgf?m or higher @ 5,000rpm) *

Wheels (Fr/Rr)
13.0J X 18

Subject to Balance of Performance defined by the FIA

This Nissan GT-R Nismo GT3 is a racing car. It can not be used on public roads or be registered for such a license.


Customer’s area
Price (without tax)*

Japan, Asia, North America, South America, and Oceania
¥ 35,000,000

Europe, including Russia and Middle East
£ 270,000

The sales price is EXW (ex works) and does not include shipping or delivery.

Ballistic: The 2011 Nissan GT-R V6 Twin Turbo is capable of dashing from 0-100km/h in an amazing 3.0 seconds flat

For the 2011 model year – in line with Mr Ghosn’s promise to constantly evolve the born-again R35 over its current life cycle – the GT-R comes with a host of engine, suspension, braking, electronic and aerodynamic upgrades.

Ballistic: The 2011 Nissan GT-R Turbo V6  is capable of dashing from 0-100km/h in an amazing 3.0 seconds flat.

Go Auto First drive: Godzilla gets even greater

Nissan reloads its giant-killing super-coupe for 2011 as the GT-R gets even quicker

28 March 2011


NISSAN has landed its even quicker new MY11 GT-R in Australia two years after the born-again R35 super-coupe arrived here.

On sale now at selected Nissan dealers in just one specification priced up to $10,000 higher than the benchmark-setting model it replaces, the upgraded all-wheel drive coupe comes with more power and torque, revised suspension, a new-look interior and more standard equipment.

The headline act, however, is claimed 0-100km/h acceleration that is almost half a second quicker than before at an astonishing three seconds dead, maintaining the giant-killing Japanese supercar’s edge over hallowed European competitors that cost twice and in some cases three times as much.

Nissan says it holds a strong order bank for Australia’s single MY11 version, which costs $168,800 plus on-road costs – $6000 more than the outgoing GT-R Premium flagship it effectively replaces and $10,000 more than the discontinued entry-level MY10 GT-R – and is expected to attract 200 customers here this year.

It is just as well because, as with all sportscars, the R35-series GT-R’s popularity has waned significantly since it was released in Australia in March 2009. Nissan has sold just two GT-Rs so far this year and tallied only 77 in 2010 – two-thirds down on the 238 examples it shifted in the new GT-R’s debut year.

Nissan Australia announced a bargain-basement starting price of just $148,800 for the R35 at the Sydney motor show in October 2008, a year after the company’s audacious global chief Carlos Ghosn presented the final production version of his ground-breaking new baby in Tokyo.

Nissan then blamed currency fluctuations for pushing the car’s base price to $155,800 before it had even arrived here, but softened the blow for early adopters by honouring its initial price for the 150-plus Australians who had pre-ordered.

Even with subsequent price increases and the upgraded model’s more substantial price hike, however, the GT-R remains less than half as expensive as Porsche’s iconic 911 Turbo coupe and more than three times more affordable than the top-end supercar yardsticks with which its ballistic performance figures allow it to compete.

Of course, Porsche and Ferrari insist its Nissan badge will prevent any self-respecting European supercar enthusiast that is lucky enough to be in a position to buy a Ferrari 458 Italia ($526,950) or top-shelf 911 GT2 RS ($560,000) from cross-shopping this Japanese upstart with the finest established wares from Maranello or Zuffenhausen.

Of course, Nissan’s GT-R heritage does not stretch back as far as Ferrari’s or Porsche’s, even if Nissan is keen to celebrate this year’s 20th anniversary of the original R32 Skyline GT-R’s historic 1991 Bathurst 1000 and Australian Touring Car Championship double victories, a feat it repeated in 1992.

The fact remains, however, that few others cars – regardless of their pricetag – can match the GT-R’s pace.

For the 2011 model year – in line with Mr Ghosn’s promise to constantly evolve the born-again R35 over its current life cycle – the GT-R comes with a host of engine, suspension, braking, electronic and aerodynamic upgrades.

Visually differentiated primarily by the addition of LED daytime running lights, the MY11 GT-R follows last year’s updated MY10 model, which brought more subtle changes, like better low to mid-range engine response, revised shock absorbers, enhanced cooling and a fresh equipment list.

The headline act for 2011, however, is a 0-100km/h acceleration figure Nissan claims has been lowered to a staggering 3.046 seconds – almost half a second quicker than the MY10’s already-mighty figure.

NissanGT-R center imageBy way of comparison, Ferrari claims its new 458 does the 0-100 sprint in 3.4 seconds, while – at least officially – Porsche says its 911 GT2 is only as quick as the previous GT-R at 3.5 seconds.

That actually makes the 911 Turbo S (3.3 seconds for the PDK-only coupe) Porsche’s quickest car to the national highway limit, even though we’ve recorded an independently verified 3.2-second pass in the latest standard 911 Turbo – which is around the same pace Porsche promises for its upcoming 918 Spyder plug-in hybrid.

Of course, 0-100km/h acceleration is just one measure of performance and Nissan’s tit-for-tat battle with Porsche and its GT2 to set the fastest time at Germany’s famed Nurburgring has been well documented, with both models allegedly recording lap times under the benchmark figure of 7:30 and Porsche’s blistering new 911 GT2 RS said to have set the latest yardstick at just 7:18.

Whatever the actual pecking order in the upper echelons of the performance car world, the latest GT-R achieves quite a feat by delivering the first significant power boost since the R35 went on sale in Japan in December 2007, while reducing average fuel consumption by 3.5 per cent, from 12.5 to 12.0L/100km, and CO2 emissions to 279g/km.

Not many people would have suggested the GT-R needed any more power, but the hand-made VR38DETT twin-turbo V6 has been revised to reap another 33kW and 24Nm.

The revised 3.8-litre unit, with red rocker covers to link it to the R34 GT-R’s inline six, now generates a whopping 390kW (up from 357kW) at the same 6400rpm, matching Porsche’s 911 Turbo S but not the ballistic new 456kW GT2 RS.

Peak torque of 612Nm (up from 588Nm) is now available all the way from 3200rpm to 6000rpm, rather than only at 5200rpm, making the 2011 GT-R engine more flexible, though still less muscular than the most potent version of Porsche’s twin-turbo 3.8-litre flat six (700Nm).

Nissan engineers increased boost pressure, changed the valve timing and air mixture ratio and added larger inlet pipes. There is also a redesigned faster-acting catalyst.

The GR6 six-speed dual-clutch automated manual transmission remains largely unchanged for the newest GT-R. It still features two wet clutches to ensure pre-selection of the next gear and the ability to change gears so quickly that the engine remains on boost. Like the previous version, the transmission can be controlled using steering wheel shift paddles, which are now made from magnesium.

Nissan has also developed a new ‘Save’ mode for the transmission, which can be selected for more sedate driving during which engine torque is reduced and shift points are raised to avoid unnecessary over-revving and fuel consumption.

Drivers can still select the ‘R’ mode, which orders the transmission to shift faster and harder and the VDC stability control system to be less intrusive, while the GT-R also retains its controversial launch control function, which Nissan refers to only as “starting performance”.

The revised GT-R runs the same ‘Atessa’ all-wheel drive system, which can shoot up to 100 per cent of torque to the rear wheels and up to 50 per cent to the front wheels, but some minor control changes have been made.

It still features a rear-mounted independent transaxle, but there is now a two-wheel-drive mode that comes into play below 10km/h and when the steering wheel is turned beyond the half-lock point, aiding low-speed parking.

Nissan has revised the 10kg-lighter (but still relatively heavy) suspension, although the basic architecture – comprising a double wishbone front-end and four-link rear-end – remains.

Nissan has introduced new shock absorbers it claims are more precise and react faster to driver inputs. The dampers are self-adjusting based on data from 11 sensors, or the driver can select from Comfort, Sport or R modes, which provide different pre-set damping rates.

It fitted a rigid, lightweight front suspension strut brace made from carbon-aluminium honeycomb composite to increase body stiffness, revised front suspension geometry to improve turning grip and straight-line stability, and a different rear roll centre to improve tyre grip and feedback.

There is also an additional support member in the passenger side of the instrument panel, which now connects more rigidly with the engine bay, while Nissan says the fitment of body panels on the production line is more accurate and “a higher-precision G sensor is utilised in checking the instrument panel during the vibration testing of each vehicle body”.

Other changes to the front suspension include retuned springs, dampers and anti-roll bar to “improve the vertical load response of the tyres”, while the front caster angle is increased marginally to improve both turn-in grip and straight-line stability.

At the rear, toe performance is modified by lowering the roll centre height to improve cornering grip and increase road feel, while an aluminium free-piston shock absorber is adopted to increase damping force while reducing friction and improving ride comfort.

Upgraded Nissan-developed brake rotors are now thinner but slightly larger in diameter (390mm up front, 380mm at the rear) and are claimed to improve braking force, fade resistance and pedal control, while extending brake rotor life.

Lighter and more rigid new 20-inch forged alloy wheels are fitted, wrapped with stickier-compound Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GT 600 DSST CTT tyres with improved sidewall rigidity and a tread pattern that Nissan says enhances straight-line stability on rutted roads. The new wheels measure 9.5 inches wide at the front and 10.5 inches wide at the rear, wearing 255/40-section tyres at the front and 285/35s at the rear.

Unless you are a fan, the exterior changes for the 2011 GT-R are likely to go unnoticed. They include the LED DRLs, new front and rear bumpers, an extended rear diffuser, LED tail-lights and new exhaust outlets.

Nissan says the changes to the bumpers, which include fins at the front, have reduced the car’s aerodynamic drag coefficient from 0.272 to 0.268Cd, while the rear bumper revisions are said to generate 10 per cent more downforce.

Perhaps more important to some GT-R buyers is the addition of two new exterior colours – with Daytona Blue replacing Titanium Grey and Metallic Black replacing Kuro Black.

Nissan has also upgraded the cabin, with the aim of giving it a more elegant and luxurious appearance, including a revised instrument panel with new satellite-navigation display and real carbon-fibre centre cluster finish, matt-black switches, a “velour-like” coating for the GT-R badge on the steering wheel and black-smoked (rather than chromed) climate controls.

There are also new door seals to improve the GT-R’s door-closing sound, extra trim mounting points aimed at eliminating squeaks and front seats that are said to offer improved comfort and support and a larger heated section than before.

Standard equipment includes front, side and curtain airbags, a Bose audio system with 11 speakers, including two sub-woofers, iPod connectivity, a seven-inch colour centre screen with graphics designed by Gran Turismo creators Polyphony, satellite-navigation with 3D view, a 9.36GB music hard-drive, keyless entry and starting, Bluetooth phone connectivity, dual-zone climate-control, leather seat trim with suede inserts and a leather-trimmed dashboard.

Nissan GT-R Ballistic: The 2011 Nissan GT-R is capable of dashing from 0-100km/h in an amazing 3.0 seconds flat.

2011 Nissan GT-R pricing:
R35 GT-R $168,800


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Turbo Car Club

2011 Nissan GT-R – 0 – 100km/h 3.0-Seconds!!

2011 Nissan GT-R – 0 – 100km/h 3.0-Seconds!!

by Brad Leach – 13/12/10

A 2011 model factory GT-R has been officially measured and witnessed recording a zero to 100km/h time of just 3.046 seconds.

The blistering run was supported by several motoring journalists who took just 3.1 seconds to do the standing 100km/h.

While the journalists drove the Nissan GT-R with the VDC-R traction program in the less aggressive ‘A-Mode’, it was switched to ‘R-Mode’ (maximizes tyre grip and engine performance) to achieve the 3.046 seconds time.

2011 model year Nissan GT-R
The runs were undertaken on the main straight of the Sedai Highland Raceway in Japan. Of course it’s winter in Japan and the track temperature was a bone-jarring 13 degrees.

With warmer road conditions, Nissan GT-R chief engineer Kazutoshi Mizuno (who was in Australia earlier this year, hosting journalists and local GT-R owners at the Phillip Island Raceway) reckons the GT-R will take the standing 100km/h time into the world of 2.0-seconds.

Nissan Australia will launch the 2011 model year GT-R in March, priced from $168,800. As well as increased power and improved traction, two new colours will be introduced to the GT-R palette – ‘GT Blue’ and ‘Jet Black’

Turbo Car Club

Nissan Skyline GTS4 RB20 INTAKE “TURBOCLUB RB AFM” Rebuild


1992 Nissan Skyline Hr32 GTS-4 AFM (Air Fuel Meter) Upgrade modification to suit high volume 550cc Mazda RX7 Injectors.


Modified Nissan Skyline HR32 GTs-4 RB20DET INTAKE AFM Rebuild!

Nissan Skyline GTS4
Complete RB20 INTAKE “TURBOCLUB RB AFM” High Flow Modification
MID 2004

Index Page

Click on the images below  to see a larger view

The main reason for this turbo AFM modification was that I wanted to fit larger RX7 550cc Injectors to the Nissan RB20DET Engine in my quest for 250AWKw, and not be restricted by the airflow limitations of the standard sized AFM. (Air Fuel Meter)

RB20DET – Single Turbo 2Ltr

4 Speed Automatic

RWD Bias until more grip needed then Front
Wheels engage.

_Nissan_RB20DET_AFM_01.jpg (63833 bytes)

Proven to WORK!!
Car completely drivable with 550cc Mazda
RX7 Injectors in place of the standard Nissan injectors.

MID2004 – In doubling the size of the metered
orifice area  that was the Original Nissan AFM I guestimated
that the increased size for a given RPM would
slow the airflow measured by the AFM so the
larger injectors would open less to keep the
Airfuel ratio roughly correct. Hopefully this
would be enough to be able to drive it to a Dyno
to get it properly tuned to suit all  the modifications so
it is 100% smog legal.

afm_1.jpg (53058 bytes)

afm_2.jpg (50453 bytes)

afm_10.jpg (51744 bytes)

afm_3.jpg (11502 bytes)
afm_4.jpg (15096 bytes)

This is how the AFM looked after cutting
up the plastic tubing surrounding the post
and electronics box and connector still
intact and ready to measure a lot lower
airspeed in the new larger orifice .

afm_11.jpg (51570 bytes)

afm_7.jpg (53081 bytes)

afm_5.jpg (51221 bytes)

Here you can see the original Intake Air Box
has been cut to remove the original AFM body
mounting and the hole extended to suit the
larger custom AFM assy. The new duct was
made from welded aluminum sheet formed to
suit the size required to double the
original with a rounded lip to smooth the
                             afm_12.jpg (53060 bytes)  afm_6.jpg (49954 bytes)

The AFM post assy then was refitted to
the new larger diameter tube in the same
position as original.

afm_15.jpg (58570 bytes)

afm_9.jpg (52501 bytes)
afm_8.jpg (53893 bytes)

Here you can see that I have had to reduce the pipe size back down to near the original but this is after the air flow has been measured by the meter so it does not matter.



JAN2005 “TURBOCLUB RB AFM” mod finished and
proven to work

– completed “TURBOCLUB AFM” insitu below..

_Nissan_RB20DET_AFM_05.jpg (50682 bytes)



_Nissan_RB20DET_AFM_01.jpg (63833 bytes)

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_Nissan_RB20DET_AFM_03.jpg (62836 bytes)

_Nissan_RB20DET_AFM_04.jpg (37488 bytes)

Because I fooled the ECU with the 550 cc
injectors and the double size AFM I suspect
the ecu is giving incorrect timing.

Obviously I expected to have to re-tune the
ECU anyway to suit the fuel and air mods but
may have not realised the timing
implications.Well as mentioned I took the Nissan HR32
GTS4 to Dr Drift – Sam Cornell this morning
to see if we could sort out the bad noise
problems and generaly check over the entire
ECU etc.
As he is the only person that seems to
specialise in remapping the Nissan ECU in
Melbourne I was happy to only have to drive
20 klms instead of 1200 klms to Adelaide to
see Martin Donnon again just to tune the
Sam seems to know what he is on about and
said he would do a baseline run just to see
what was going on regarding my concerns on
the modified AFM I had created to allow the
Mazda RX7 550cc Injectors to work OK on the
Nissan Skyline RB20 turbo and at least be drivable to be able to
get it to a workshop to be tuned.


I have to say that in talking to Sam, (Dr
Drift) initially before taking the car over
to his workshop, he expressed some concerns
with the Mod AFM causing a problem with the
AF ratio and the fact it may be extremely
difficult to map the mod AFM to get good
stable AF ratio and it may be running lean.
Sam suggested that some of the 15yr old AFM
units are causing some problems and maybe
worthwhile to get a new Z model AFM that he
could easily map.

Well after running the RB20DET up on the
dyno he logged the AFR ( Air-Fuel-Ratio) at a steady 12.2

across the rev range! AFM Modification
PROVEN TO WORK with 550cc Injectors near
spot on. The timing needed a 2-3deg retard
but that was all on 13PSI the std gate non
bled pressure.

Admittedly the idle was a bit
ordinary, mainly ok but occasionaly
hesitating and near stalling but at least
fully drivable.

OK what was the RW-KW?? – DAMN only 106!

The problem is that the virtually brand new
$800 Soderstrom torque Converter is totaly
slipping all the way to 5000rpm and Sam
could not go any further until I get this
issue fixed!

I remember that Martin Donnon did say when
he tuned it at MorPowa up to about 180KW
that he suspected that the trans was
slipping then but I did not want to belive
it because I had recently spent $3000 on
getting it completely rebuilt and how could
it possibly be the problem?!?

On the return journey home to Victoria I
blew off one of the intercooler hoses
passing a truck and was able to fasten it
again without too much drama and I said to
myself “THATS why Martin could not get the
power up, it must have been loose and
leaking” – Stupid they did not check!

Glenn, (Turbine) suggested we drive over to
Street & Strip Automatics in Seaford where
he got the Jatco for the RB20DE+T Drag Car
built to talk to Alex about what to do to
sort it out.

Looks like I will have to book the GTS4 in
for a week or so for him to remove the
Soderstrom TCI 2700 Stall Torque Converter
to get sent away for rebuilding. As well I
intend to get the whole box disassembled to
be rechecked that all the expensive kevlar
clutches and bands are still OK after ONLY
less than 5000K’s of driving around reving
the car at no more than 3000RPM because of
the noise problem that no one seems to be
able to accurately identify.

I am starting to wonder if maybe the strange
noise is the bloody transmission as well!!

Well in hindsight I should have guessed that the noise was going to be bad!

It was the bigends knocking from lack of oil pressure from the oil pump that the screws were later found to be coming out of the internal backing plate of the oil pump. After the engine had completly almost ceased to run we pulled it down to find the reason why and could not believe that the oil pump could come apart so easily with all the screws loose and obviously leaking all pressure internaly into the sump.

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