2021 EcoBoost Mustang | Owner Ryan C. from the Vegas area

2021 EcoBoost Mustang | Customer Build

PAOLI, Pa. (January 17th, 2022) – Mustang parts authority,AmericanMuscle (AM) is back with another installment of their “Customer Builds” YouTube series.

 2021 EcoBoost Mustang | Customer Build

The new video features a shadow black, 2021 EcoBoost Mustang with thoughtfully chosen appearance, interior, and performance mods. AM host, Justin Dugan chats virtually with owner Ryan C. from the Vegas area to find out which parts were first on his list and why. The video, along with Ryan’s corresponding build page gives muscle car enthusiasts food for thought when it comes to customizing their own ride at home.

2021 EcoBoost Mustang | Owner Ryan C. from the Vegas area

Seeking that old-school styling, Ryan added aluminum louvers for the rear window along with louvered quarter window covers to complete the look. Inside, he installed a red shifter knob and some carbon fiber trim, with plans for the complete kit down the road. The Roush intake with the Borla ATAK axle-back exhaust boosted performance while delivering that ‘mean’ sound Ryan was after. Future mods for Ryan’s aptly named ‘Batmobile’ include staggered wheels, dark gray racing stripes, and a body kit.

2021 EcoBoost Mustang | Owner Ryan C. from the Vegas area

Ryan’s Mustang “is the perfect example for guys out there who maybe just picked up something new and are looking for a great place to start,” says Justin. Right out of the gate, his choices improved not only the performance and sound of his ride but also its looks, inside and out. Viewers can head to Ryan’s build page on AM’s website to see a full breakdown of the mods he chose for his 2021 EcoBoost Mustang.

View it here: https://www.americanmuscle.com/profiles/179671?from=0

Nissan RB30 Skyline Upgrade

Skylines Australia RB30 DOHC Guide


R32 & R33 Skyline Specific Last Update – 8th November 2007

This guide has originated from the following HUGE thread on SAU.

Please note inaccuracies may exist, so use with caution at your own risk.

Skylines Australia RB30 DOHC Guide

© Copyright 2006 Skylines Australia

Thanks to all of those who have made pictures available for use within this document which includes Cobra30 


Compatible DOHC Heads

Three heads can be used for the twin cam conversion.

    • RB26DETT Head
    • RB25DE (R32) Head
  • RB25DE/T (R33) VCT Head

All three heads cc up around the 62-64cc mark.
However, please be sure to double check, there have been cases where people
have bought heads that for some reason are way off. Possibly fiddled with.

RB25’s have ALLWAYS had problems with lifters

Start up hydraulic lifter rattle is the first sign of lifter wear. It is most commonly caused by worn oil seals in the lifters. The oil leaks out over night and when you start the engine first thing in the morning it takes a little while for the oil to firstly fill up the empty lifters and then build up pressure. Replacing the lifters usually fixes this.

If the lifters are not replaced, then the wear rate increase exponentially due to the lack of oil. Eventually the lifters can’t hold the oil pressure at all and the rattle comes back at low to mid rpms. Replacing the lifters will fix this.

Eventually the lifter get so badly worn that they rattle all the time. This can lead to damaged camshaft lobes due to the excessive clearances.

So my first suggestion is to replace the lifters.

Some lifter rattle is caused by too infrequent oil changes and a resulting build up of sludge. This causes blockages in the oil flow into the lifters, hence they rattle. A few oil changes usually fix this problem, not that I think it is the case for a Skyline enthusiast, we change the oil too often for that.

Some say to put solid lifters in it which will solve the problem…
Keep in mind that a swap to solid lifters will also require a swap to camshafts designed to run with solid lifters.

lifter noise occassionally when the revs drop right down to a crazy low rpm, like 600 or less. But it clears when oil pressure returns to normal. So a lack of pressure will cause the lifters to tick abit. There might have been no problem with them originally, as in not bad enough to replace but its infact your oil pump that needs seeing to.

As some people say; if you experience hydraulic lifter tick once the motor is warm its a tell tale sign the motors on its last legs.

As a reference point the RB30’s SOHC head cc’s up around the 55 to 58cc mark.

The RB26DETT head from the R32/33 GTR bolts only requires a modification to the head stud holes.
The RB26DETT runs larger studs. All water/oil galleys line up.

b26dett head build to suit RB30

Head fits straight on as per normail RB26/30 engines,

The rb26 head having larger head studs that the rb25. You need to retap the rb30 block out to bolt the rb26 head on.

The rb26dett head, has the advantage of the front facing plenum from factory.

addition of a oil drain back from the rear of the head to the sump.

The throttle linkage mounts up very close to the same but the 25 cable is longer so use a GTR cable. Over all the 26 head is easier than the VVT head.

complete r32rb25de non vvt head with injectors coil packs, manifolds etc $500.

Fit a metal headgasket and head goes on. the problem of the exhaust manifold touching the block, so grind the manifold down rather than the block.

The issue with bonnet clearence isnt an issue with GTR’s as much due to the rb26 head.

bit of an issue with the bonnet clearance tends to hit, so i not sure either bonnet scoop or ill try adjusting it to suit.

The R32 RB25DE cylinder head requires oil flow the same as an RB20DET cylinder head. The questions are still the oil pump flow and pressure, the rpm commonly used and the length of continuous time that rpm is used. Plus what work has been done on the oil return system. So it’s not a simple one size answer, it’s more a 3 dimensional table.

At this point it is worth expanding on the discussion of RB25 oil supply. They have 3 oil feeds, one for the VVT which overflows into the cylinder head and has its own return to the sump located on the front LHS. The other 2 are the normal RB oil feeds to the camshaft bearings.

regarding the VVT oil supply, it should always be left in place, untouched if the VVT is being used. Then selecting from the 1.0 mm 1.25 or 1.5 mm restrictors according to the usage. Refer to the table for the exact details.

Have you ever seen how much smoke half a litre of oil can make when it gets sprayed over your hot red extractors ???

The oil needs to be controlled and it has to be slown down to get to the top of the engine.

i have the problem in my rb2030 its a 20head on a 30 vlt block so i gets the hi comp but my cams are 264 8.5 and ones 9.5 i think and they blow open my valves at 5000rpm ive also been told that theres too much oil getting to the head and making it hard for my lifters to bleed off
im getting prices on valve spring to suit 10mm lift cams so this should help my problem of the valves blowing open
so if i fit the 1.5mm restrictor it should be all sweet oil wise can i just fit X2 1.5mm restrictors …?

yes its a good idea
yes its been done plenty of times before
and there are 100’s upon 100’s of motors running around like this that have been fine for years
Looks like Sydneykid was right – the lifters were the cause of the issue.. i changed them and its much better now. Does not make noises at 3000rpm in 5th gear on cruise anymore.

I changed the cams as well – but time will tell if the noise comes back or whatever.. its till there if you rev it sometimes but its clear now that i have to go to solids.

get some cam seals and replace the timing belt

I feel less worried following sk’s advice for the hydraulic head.
It is worrying when you hear from engine building places not to mention tomei them selves recommending against blocking off one restrictor in a hydraulic head.
I think a final word from Proengines would be the clencher for myself.

My problem was I didn’t know of any one with an Rb20DET or R32 Rb25DE non vct head that had run with 1 restrictor blocked and a 1.5mm up front. The R32 Rb25DE and Rb20 heads are near identical apart from slightly larger ports and the larger combustion chamber/valves etc. So I wasn’t completely comfortable using the R33+ Rb25 VCT head as a comparison that it really did work without problems. biggrin.gif

But yes.. Still more than enough oil floating around; I’ve noticed I can now see the top of the bucket where as prior oil was constantly filled 1/4 up the base of the cam so impossible to see the top of the bucket.

I run the non-vct RB25 head.

I blocked off the rear restrictor as the Rb26’s are and run a 1.5mm restrictor up font.

Works fine no ticks, pops etc. Went from shit loads of oil everywhere over 5500rpm+ to a bone dry catch can. Still plenty of oil floating around in the cam covers. Prior on idle oil was puddled up to the base of the cam so you couldn’t see the lifter. Now u can.

In regards to the RB25 , why is the front feed blocked off and the rear feed restricted but with the other engines its the rear feed that gets blocked off and the front feed get’s the restrictor as per sydneykids table ??

It’s actually quite logical, VCT heads have 3 oil feeds, front (for the VCT), middle and rear. Since you have to run the front oil feed (otherwise the VCT won’t work) it makes sense to block off the middle feed and use the rear. It balances the flow better along the head. For a 2 oil feed head (non VCT) you want to use the oil feed closest to the oil pump, that’s the front one, and block off the rear one. Logical isn’t it?

we dont know where sydney kid comes up with his ideas but they have been proven to work time after time after time

I do the research, come up with the solution to the problem and then we test, test, test.

The oil flow mods were originally arrived at in 1999 and have been only slightly revised since, so there are 8 years of testing. They work, everytime, just follow the table.

In regards to the RB25 , why is the front feed blocked off and the rear feed restricted but with the other engines its the rear feed that gets blocked off and the front feed get’s the restrictor

I have a concern with the std restrictors that i pulled out of the block , i only removed the rear. The restrictor itself is of only a small orifice but its what is underneath the restrictor that i am having problems.. the restrictor is roughly 10mm long with a step down that has 3 hole in the bottom that angled into the bottom if it. Underneath that is a drian back valve or what looks like to be .

Do you remove the drain back valve aswell or just the restrictor??
If i was to but the restrictor with the valve left in place then once oil pressure reaches the valve then the valve would be shut on the bottom side of the restrictor (tomei 1.5 restrictor) that i am installing and would not let any oil up to the head . i would draw a diagram but it a bit hard to manage.. I have never seen a restrictor like this before and i am very concerned.

Kyle. I can answer that. You need to be worried about the amount of oil going into the upper area of the head and not the drainback, so just do the upper restrictors as per the guide.
i thought i’d add to this thread that with my carbon fibre bonnet, it fouled on the front of the motor. Cant drop the engine down either caus there’s only ~10mm clearance between the cross member and the axles.

One minor modification I did to expediate things down the track was to put a an extra join in the drain back line close to the head but accessible enough to get at.
Reason being The first time i lifted the head for a valve upgrade it was a total pain in the arse trying to lift the head off the arp studs as the hose wasnt long enough and it is nigh impossible to get to the back of the head to disconnect it.
Doing a cam upgrade atm and it sure bore fruit. A couple of clamps and off she comes.

I disconnect at the sump, no joins.

I am not in favour of plumbing the head oil return into the turbo oil return. The turbo rotation thrashes the oil into a foam and it fills up the hose pretty well. It might be OK on a twin turbo (as per Duncan’s application) as there is only half the oil flow in the rear turbo oil retrun. But I wouldn’t do it on a single turbo application.

Using a rb25de head off a r32 on the rb30 bottom end?

An R32 RB25DE cylinder head, is the best low cost head you can use on the RB30, with no VVT to confuse the issue, it’s a straight bolt on.
The reality is there is no need for a separate thread, it’s so simple. You can use the RB30 guide, just ignore the bits about modifying for the VVT, you don’t have to worry about that. So you can use an RB30 or RB26 head gasket. Everything else, pulley positioning, head bolts etc is the same.

what can you use on the R32 rb25de head – rb20 or rb26 cams? – Use the RB25DE standard cams with adj pulleys.
You should be able to use both but if using RB26 cams you have to use solid lifters as the ramp rates are different.

The R32 RB25DE head bolts straight up to the RB30E bottom end. All water/oil galleys line up.
N/A valve springs have less tension which may cause issues when running big boost.
Cams and springs are interchangeable with RB20DET items. Valve springs identical, cams are slightly different.

The R33 RB25DE/T has variable cam timing (VCT/NVCS); this requires welding of the heads VCT oil feed.
The head still requires oil to its VCT, you will have to tap in to the oil galley and run an oil feed to it. The most common
used feed is T’ing into the oil pressure sender feed.

Compare the pictures below to gain an understanding of how the head needs to be modified.

RB25DET VCT Bottom End RB30E Bottom End No-VCT oil galley

IF ITS A RB25 WITH VCT . leave front feed , block middle and restrict rear feed ..

VCT heads have 3 oil feeds, front (for the VCT), middle and rear. Since you have to run the front oil feed (otherwise the VCT won’t work) it makes sense to block off the middle feed and use the rear. It balances the flow better along the head.

For a 2 oil feed head (non VCT) you want to use the oil feed closest to the oil pump, that’s the front one, and block off the rear one. Logical isn’t it?

To solve the VCT oil feed problem you can remove the VVT solinoid and drill straight down the vvt oil feed galery through a brass plug and into the cavity which houses the VCT solinoid, the oil gallery on the block side of the head has been plugged with alloy expoxy putty ,when heated it expands and contracts at the same rate as alluminum which is very important!!

The R33 RB25 also requires you to plumb in an external head oil return, you can T in to the turbo drain.

The RB20DE/T has smaller ports and much smaller valves to the RB25 & 26 heads.
R32 RB20DET Inlet – 30mm R32 RB20DET Exhaust – 27mm
R32 RB25 Inlet – ~34mm R32 RB25 Exhaust – 29mm

R32 RB25 head uses the RB20DET style ports but larger.
The ports are still not ‘as’ large as the R33 RB25 or RB26 heads.
Slightly smaller ports – I haven’t been able to pick any performance downsides apart from the lack of VCT.
The ‘slightly’ smaller ports should not put you off this head.
This head is recommended for use in an R32 for ease of installation and compatibility with existing sensors & plugs.
This head uses hydraulic lifters.

R33 RB25 & RB26 heads use the same style inlet ports with the same or very similar measurements.
Use one of these two heads if you are putting the rb30det in to a R33 for ease of installation.
This head uses hydraulic lifters.

R34 RB25 heads bolt up fine; The R34 head cc’s up at 50-51cc’s
They utilize solid cams so use a bucket on shim setup. No hydraulic lifters.

The hydraulic heads can only support cams with approximately ~9mm lift before they require machining of the buckets
for clearance.

With the stock bonnet the top cam belt cover fouls the bonnet support beams.

Both GTR and GTS4.

lower the rb30/26 so the bonnet closes in a r32 gtr spaced the xmember or modified the engine mounts the cefiro rwd cross members mount/position the motor lower.

Quite possible its the same for the cefiro 4wd crossmembers. Chances of finding a 4wd cefiro cross member is pretty slim, and even then it may not bolt up.

the engine mounts from a LD28 powered laurel or R31 skyline station wagon, because of the deck height on the block the engine mounts are shorter,

the Rb30 was a australian only model in the r30, r 31 skylines and the last of nissan’s 3l stocks were sold to GMH to power the 1987 holden commodore as this was a cheaper option then trying to engineer a new motor to come in under australia’s exhaust emmisions laws as the 202 would never pass.

the patrol runs a live front axle this block could be used aswell as that from a vl or early skyline

3l gxe nissan station wagon for example.

the only major difference between the blocks of that era are the deck hieght and stroke,

Use the rb30 block and crankshaft from a vl, to replace the damaged 26 block from a gtr

get the block honed and faces machined, the crank machined and balanced, oversized bearings, new rods and pistons.

everything mostly is a straight swap, the sump, pick up , etc.

there is only so far you can lower it before the sump hits the cross-member, particularly once the 10mm 4WD adaptor plate is in there too..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Tha…Build/Diff2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Tha…0Build/Diff.jpg

Head Gasket

Personal preference.
Tried and proven is to O-ring the block and use a standard Nissan RB26 or 30 OEM head gasket.
I personally used and re-used (with a spray of Hylomar) a COMETIC multilayer head gasket.
Trust Head gaskets are excellent.
The RB30 uses the same head gasket as the RB26, an RB25 gasket can also be used.

Inlet Manifold and Plenum

R32/R33 RB25 plenums and inlet manifolds are not interchangeable.
The R32 RB20DET plenum bolts on to the R32 RB25 Inlet manifold.

R32 RB25 & RB26 heads run top feed injectors.
R33 heads run side feed injectors.
The R33 RB25 & GTR ports are slightly larger than the R32 RB25’s.

For comparisons sake, a picture of an RB20DET Inlet manifold with a R32
RB25DE gasket over the top. Note the port size difference.

Exhaust Manifold

R32 RB20/25, R33 RB25 have the same exhaust manifold bolt up. They
are interchangeable.
RB26 exhaust manifolds utilize a different bolt up pattern.

In order to bolt up the exhaust manifold of your choice you must grind
down the water galleys protruding lumps that run from the front to the rear
of the block.
They must be removed as they foul the exhaust manifold.

Short Motor

Be sure to select a short motor that has provision for the turbos oil
feed/return, water return and has both lower tensioner locations machined
flat, some do not have the machined area to mount the tensioner.
Yellow highlights vertical to one another are the oil feed and return.
The Yellow highlight towards the rear of the block is the water return.
Water feed is provided from a hose/steel pipe assembly that feeds from
the opposite side of the block.
Should the block lack water/oil provision it is possible to drill and tap.

For a street driven motor with a twin cam oil pump use the follow head oil
RB25 Head – Blocked rear , 1.5mm front.
RB26 Heads – Blocked rear, 1.25 to 1.5mm front.
Consider slightly restricting both RB25 and RB26 down to 1.1-1.2 should
the car see a LOT of track work with an N1 oil pump.
Use the RB20/25/26’s oil dip stick & holder as the RB30’s is not long enough to clear the DOHC inlet manifold.

You will have to use the RB20/RB25 block heater hose attachments accordingly. They are situated on the inlet side of the motor at the front where the thermostat resides and towards the back of the motor roughly where cylinders 5 & 6 reside.


Grind off the RB20/25/26 fins towards the back of the sump, the rb30 crank and rods have a longer throw and will foul. The RB30 sump has no clearance issues in the R32/R33 Skylines.

* Sump adaption and oil pick up.
1) Sump/Diff Adapter: There are people offering these but they take alot of work to fit/line up. Chunks of the block on the diff side of the sump ie webbing needs to be removed to clear the studs from the sump.

3) Oil Pickup, im sure there are a few methods but due to the oil pickup on the RB30 being too far back this needs to be blocked and then be tapped into from the outside of the block, the pickup on my engine is boxed and mounted to the base of the sump with a line running to the turbo side of the engine/sump. this is then connected to the oil pickup tapped from the outside with an inline filter.

I am still wondering about the SUMP adaptor, cant u just use the sump from the GTR/GTS4 on the rb30? U might have to modify it a little? Also is it ok to use a VL turbo headgasket with the 25de head? If not will an rb25det metal headgas

I already mentioned in this thread who makes the sump adapters.
yes you can use the RB30 gasket.
you can buy a VRS gasket kit which has all the gaskets for everything.

The adapter plate allows you to bolt the rb26 sump to the rb30 block. It is CAD designed to match the rb30 block to the wider 4wd sump. However there are other mods that have to be done besides just the adapter.
After that you will have to fabricate an external oil pickup due to the different pickup locations for a rwd rb series engine and a 4wd engine. You will also need to lastly modify the studs on the cv side of the sump to 2 long bolts, and also die grind or mill flat a part of the rb30 block to allow bolts instead of the studs on the diff side. This all sounds hard but i provide detailed instructions on how i did it and how you can do it, and if you are mechanical you can do alot yourself, I have done around 6 know and have sold many plates. This aside i sell the bare plates laser cut from cadium plated mild steel for $450, and if you got the rest done at a workshop it would cost no more that $4-600 in labour. So total cost is around the 1-1.2g mark, which is very competative considering RIPS will not do the job without selling you a built bottom end for $3800, and NIZPRO and AVO will not do it with out your own motor and sump sent to them and they charge $4200, theres is slightly different but I also offer different versions of tha adapter, however I am not bagging these workshops they do good work, but if you are a DIY’er then my setup is perfect for saving some money and getting involved.

If you have anymore questions please dont be afraid to ask. But i don’t really want to give out pics and detailed instructions just yet when it took me so many r and d hours to work it out for myself, like i said the other guys that do the conversions wont even sell the plate seperate cause they dont want to give away secrets!!! But like i said if you have questions about the process of fitment please dont hesitate. The plate i sell is straight forword and guys out there could make one themselves but it takes time to get spot on, and most people would rather buy soemthing they know has worked ad yeah I am not in this to make money so i basically sell the plates for what they cost me.

Cheers,My 25/30 motor is finally finished and there seems to be one thing i have overlooked, it says to grind down the webbing in the sump on the rb26 sump, since i am using a 10mm sump adptor plate will i still need to grind the webbing down?? I need to know asap as the whole motor is finished and i want to make sure the rods arent gonna hit on the bottom of the sump??

Ive never had to grind any webbing on the sump itself. I assume you mean for the webbing to clear the cross member? IF so you dont need to it doesnt touch!!
rb20/25 sumps have webbing towards the rear of the them which has to be grinded down otherwise rod cap will hit, rb26 sumps dont have webbing so dont have this problem! What the hell do i do with the gearbox since the top 4 bolts line up but the bottom 4 dont any ideas??? Thinking of just using the top 4 and leaving the bottom ones out

Have any of the guys who have done this conversion come across a problem where the bottom bell housing bolts dont line up with the holes in the bottom of the sump due to the adapter plate? I saw this on another forum where the guy made his on plate

I am going to be putting my RB26/30 engine into my gtr soon and would like to know if this is an issue


Yes, what we did with mine was to attach the gearbox to the block and re-drill into the sump extension, either that or just bolt up the top bolts dont worry about the bottom ones

So were exactly did you drill the holes into for the bottom gearbox mounts?

All you have to do is bolt your gearbox on then drill through in the sump extension, the bottom 4 bolt holes this will make new bolt holes for the bottom 4 then stick a thread in them and your biggrin.gif. We used the vl gearbox which we figured out is different to the Gtr one after as the bolt holes didnt line up, doesnt matter if it comes to it just bolt the top ones up, dont worry about the bottom ones

on. What issues have you found that are created by the extra deck height? Dump pipe length springs to mind as a ‘must do’ but what else – 38mm is enough to interefere with a/c lines, ps pump lines, rad hoses, harnesses, earth straps etc. Would be great to know how you’ve overcome these.


a/c lines = not a problem, the A/C compressor is in the same place

ps pump lines = not a problem, the power steering pump is in the same place

rad hoses = not a problem, the standard hoses fit just fine

harnesses = the engine harness actually goes downwards on a RB26, so they actually fit better on the RB30

earth straps = not a problem, they bolt to the block in the same places. The only different one is the exhaust manifold to LHS inner guard. But I always use a larger capacity cable anyway, so no big deal. Plus you have to change it if you change the exhaust manifolds.

so with a 26/30 TT config engine using all of the standard bolt on parts I need to do nothing different to a normal RB26 engine r and r except lengthen the dumps and the above mentioned earth strap, and tune? i guess fmc plumbing too..but that’s ALL?

No change to the intercooler plumbing either. But I used silicone joiners, maybe they were a little longer.
As previously mentioned, you will have to redrill the lower bell housing bolts, but that’s a 5 minute job.
I didn’t lengthen the dumps either, but they weren’t standard ones.
I upgraded the sump (Performance Metalcraft) for GTR oil surge prevention.
Plus added an oil cooler, of course.
I also extended ther lower cam cover, so it met up with the standard RB26 top cover (keeps the rocks out)

just an update guys.just fitted my proengines sump adapter. what a fooking top notch bit of kit. superb, every hole lined up a little grinding a per instructions which i have to say are also fooking brilliant. you need one buy this kit..END OF SIMPLE..bernie uk..

I’ve finally got my billet girdle finished!

It has the adapter encorporated in it. This also means my 4wd adapter plates are good to go aswell


very impressive solution shane. Are they equivalent pressure on the bearings as the standard girdle? what price?

thanks duncan, it’s taken alot of hours and money to make it smile.gif

im not sure what we’ll torque the studs to at this point, thats something i’ve gota talk to mick about. would u reckon giving more clamping pressure on the bearings a good or bad idea? or would u say try and get near to std specs as possible.

it uses rb26 headstuds as the mainstuds aswell (couldnt find an M11 ARP the right length)

Price is $2000 including all nuts/bolts & a 3mm MS template to tap/recess the block

hey shane what would you charge for a adapter like that?

for the girdle? with it fitted into a block thats been machined to suit, youd be looking around the 3k mark (including main studs)

i’ve got my machinist (different one to who machined the girdle in the pics above) quoting up on it so wont know definate prices til i hear back from him

also i would prefer to sell the whole block/crank/billet girdle as a whole machined to suit, rather than the girdle by itself, as there is ALOT of intrikit (sp) machining and measuring to be done to get it to fit properly

P.S im now getting the adapters done on the cnc out of alloy, so thats why i ahvnt gotten back to you about them yet, next week i will know pricing om them

I have also just received one of daniels sump adaptors nice piece of work! Now all i will be left to do next is modify the bottom end to suit the 4wd and relocate the oil pickup etc does anyone sell these already done??


RB30ET Pistons ~7:1 CR. Too low, you will loose response and fuel economy. RB30E Pistons ~8.2:1 CR. Nice, 8.5:1 to 9:1 is preferred depending on fuel quality.

The RB25/26 spec pistons have a smaller deck height vs. RB30 pistons.
The piston will sit lower in the bore when at TDC. Deck the block to compensate. Always measure first!

CP make a nice RB30 Flat top piston suitable, it runs a 1.280” compression height, deck the block 0.020” to achieve a
zero deck clearance, run a 0.040” head gasket all to achieve a nice 8.2-8.3:1 comp ratio with a nice tight quench that
aids low/mid range power and improves fuel economy. They have recently released a piston to achieve a 9:1 ratio.

RB30 PistonsForged piston selection Vs compression

4) Compression ratio on mine is close to 9.0:1, by using positive RB26 CP pistons.

Just make sure no one sells you RB26 pistons as RB30 twin cam pistons as many companys do.

Use a piston made for the job like CP and Arias. The correct piston is avalible so why not use them

RB26 piston sits way down the bore and thats incorrect because its supposed to end its stroke flush with the top of the block. Otherwise compression, squish etc are all off..

Ross is one piston thats sold as an RB30-26 piston that is really an RB26 piston and its a long way from the right piston for the job,5mm or so down the bore.

RB30 etc crank oil pump drive extensions are cheap in WA now, cheapest in the country and done very well.

Cubes and i are using Wiseco rb25det pistons in our rb30det. They decked the block (20 thou?), and added a 3 layer metal head gasket, and compression works out to around 9:1 if Cubes’ calculations are spot on

Oil squirters are overrated. Ceramic coat the pistons etc if you run cast ones, or just run forgies and dont worry about it

What rings are you going to look at this time around? King have a good rep with the rb30’s.
However its a must they run the HP bimetal bearings as trimetals are crap in a performance application.

Its got 350rwhp… so the stock bottom end was no up to the task ?? I am being forced to upgrade to forgies so this does not happen in the future but i dont know why i need forgies… stock should be enough but in this case it could not handle my style of driving

A lot of the rb30 blokes are running precision hypereutectic pistons with either nissan or king bearings, some run acl.

Apparently the acll hypereutectic pistons are shiet. tongue.gif

There’s a bloke here on sau s3girl, he’s been pushing 373rwkw through his rb30 running std bearings, bolts and hypereutectic pistons with a GT40 bolted on the side for quite some time, I believe rev cut is around 7k.

I just the ACL Race series pistons in my car for the RB30DET with 25 head and they are good. they are acually a MAHLE piston imported from the usa by ACL because it costs too much to make forgies in australia. I think MAHLE are the same brand as ROSS ?

my compression test came up at 120 in all cyl so its a little lower then before but good for high boost =)

i used the precision motorsport conrods in my engine as well which they all come out of the same factory in china (scat eagle rah rah) they do well for what they are (can handle 700rwhp) without any issues

Precision H-Beam Forged Rods – Nissan Skyline RB30/ Holden VL Commodore (set of 6) $1,150.00AUD (inc GST)
$1,045.45AUD(ex GST)
$1,020.00AUD (inc GST)
$927.27AUD(ex GST)

Forged Conrods are a must for a bullet proof rebuild on your turbocharged engine. This allows the stress to be taken off the bottom end under high rpm and high boost. Of course forged pistons are not essential, but are highly recomended.

Precision Motorsport rods are manufactured from certified 4340 steel, vacuum degassed to remove impurities, and multistage heat treated. Each forging is X-rayed, and shot peened to relieve stress, and all surfaces are 100% machined.

H-Beam Connecting Rods Feature:

NEW 4340 Certified Forged Steel Rod
ARP 5/16 2000 capscrew bolts standard
Silcone Bronze bushings for floating pins
Precision alignment sleeves positively locate the rod cap, eliminating cap walk
Packaged in weight matched sets end to end +/- 1 gram
Rated for upto 750 horsepower (Same as the limit of the factory RB30 Crankshaft)

My RB25 is for circuit racing only. Just turned it into a 5 cylinder with number one creating a new hole in the block. I need to go the dry sump way but cannot find any information on pan set up or specs. Can any body shed any light on the subject.
The wet sump ran wings, baffles, trap doors whilst the top end has enlarged breather holes going to two catch cans and a large bore line back to the sump including a holly red pump to drain oil back into the sump from the catch can.

You can of course leave your sump the way it is and simply plumb in 2 dash 8 fittings for the scavenge pumps. One moire at the rear of the cylinder for the 3rd scavenge stage and its done.

Most of us have used the air con compressor bracket on the LHS of the engine as a mountimg point for a 4 stage pump, like the Peterson 03-4201 Left Side, Twin Blade, Std Pressure

This is a 3 stage RHS, I can’t find my picture of a 4 stage LHS, but it give you the idea

The crank spins clockwise, so the best place for the sump valley is on the RHS of the engine, with the scavenge lines going under the sump from the pump. Chevy dry sump pans utilise the same logic

If you are building a rb30/26, but want to keep the standard pistons, the valves will clear.

The RB30 conrods (and all RB rods for that matter) are pretty strong. We regularly see 500 bhp RB30’s with standard rods in them last a fair while. It really depends on the quality of the tuning, the bearings and the integrity of the oil supply. Better quality rods bolts also assist.Plus using a lighter, forged piston helps the rods last longer.

How many standard cars have forged pistons as standard? I can think of over 40 without any problems. None of them display the issues you refer to. Most of them have at least 100,000 kilometre warranties from their manufacturers.

The real issue is not how the piston is made, but what tolerances the engine is set up with and how the thermal expansion is handled by the block, cylinder liners and ancillaries like radiator, thermostat and water pump. You would also need to consider support mechanisms like ceramic-coated piston crowns and teflon coated skirts.

The piston manufacturers recommendations and data sheets are of considerable benefit when determining tolerances.

he standard Nissan main bearings are perfectly OK, used in engines up to 750 bhp.
The big end bearings are not so good, we use Nizmo big end bearings as the standard ones don’t seem to be able to handle the combustion pressures.

It doesn’t matter what oil pump we use, they always show stress on the top shell after as little as 3,000 kilometres.

RB30ET pistons with a RB25DE head would give a very low compresion ratio, about 7 to 1 if I remember rightly.
That’s gunna make a poor response, slow to build boost, dog of an engine.

This is becasue the RB25 cylinder head has way bigger combustion chambers that the RB30 head. RB30E psitons will give 8.3 to 1 which is still not perfect, but much better than 7.

Don’t machine the crank, it is nitrided, just balance it.

what if i used non turbo pistons with better rings?

also i thought using the non turbo rb25 head would make more compression than a turbo rb25 head? or is it the same?actually i would be the same wouldnt it, also what would be the best compression ratio? around the 9’s? and using the t04 is cheap thats why lol i dont wanna go spending $2000 on turbo, well if i can get away with r32 ecu then maybe spend more money on turbo but who know,i want to build the bottom end first then make decisions from there. But help on the compression side would be good what about a slight machine the top of the block?

Can’t deck the block as the pistons have a dish in them and you would have to machine the pistons as well. This would weaken the ring lands.

I prefer to use around 9 to 1, makes a much more responsive engine. Plus, with the current generation of turbos, you don’t have to run high boost to make good power. So you don’t have to decompress an engine like you use to.

I read somewhere that factory RB26 pistons are forged, and are good for up to 550+bhp.

If there is no problem with the CR, they might be a reasonable alternative to aftermarket forgies if not chasing huge hp.

Also they have holes in the bottom for oil cooling, would they have and adverse effect on stregth if not bein cooled by the squirters?

It wouldn’t be hard to adapt the RB20/25/26 oil squirters.. Well apparently it isn’t. There is a bloke in Edwardstown that builds up rb30DET’s when I asked about the oil squirters he said he always fits oil squirters in to the RB30DET Block.


Stock rods have proved to be reliable up close to 500rwkw providing the motor is spun to no more than 7000rpm. Spoolup on SAU offers a great deal on forged rods. ~$800-$900 for a set RB30’s run a 152.7mm Rod. This gives us a nice 1.8:1 rod ratio.


The crank is nitrated from factory, providing it is in good condition, a linish is only required.
On some high km RB30 cranks the front and rear seals eat away at the crank a little, if bad enough this has to be re

The R32 RB20/25/26 and series 1 R33 RB25DET crank to oil pump engagement does not engage with the full length
of the oil pumps internal gear. Think of it as placing pressure on your rib cage with a single finger then doing the same
with your palm. With a greater surface area wear on the surface where the two gears engage is reduced.
It’s a well known issue, It is a very wise move to have a full length crank collar installed, the item costs approximately
$100 or $350 installed
A JUN crank collar can also be purchased for a greater cost..
Both crank collars are universal and suit ALL oil pumps.
ALL RB twin cam oil pumps will benefit with the use of a full length oil pump drive collar.

Engine Bearings

The Genuine Nissan Bearings are good but there is better available.
King Performance bearings, Clevite and ACL are all excellent.
Ensure you have plenty of oil flow, pressure, suitable clearances and you will have a strong reliable motor.

Oil Pump

Many have had success using the RB30ET oil pump.
It is best to use an oil pump from a twin cam motor as these provide more flow and

All RB oil pumps are interchangeable.
I’ll stress again. The RB pumps do have a reliability issue and crack if used at
7000rpm+ and high km’s without a crank collar.

Ensure you use lock tight on the bolts when assembling the oil pump as they are known to rattle loose causing a gradual loss of oil pressure.

Yep, it’s all RB’s, the block, oil feed and return systems were designed for ~6,000 rpm occasionally. Circuit, drift and drag means higher than that rpm and for longer periods of time.

Circuit, drag or drift RB’s with excess oil in the cylinder head, not enough oil in the sump, oil in the catch can, wet sump, oil surge, lack of oil, big end bearing failure etc

I get about 10 X PM’s a week from guys with this problem, I have posted up what is required many, many times. But still the guys want a solution after they have assembled the engine, it is in the car and they now have a problem. Well the bad news is there isn’t one solution. The answer is to do all of the steps when you are assembling the engine and then you won’t have a problem. There is no one magic, off the shelf solution. Buying a brand name restrictor, sticking it in the block and expecting that to fix the problem on its own is naive at best. Similarly fitting a baffle in the cam covers may overcome the catch can problem but it will still leave the others. whistling.gif

On the circuit race cars we take a 5 step approach in controlling the amount of oil that is trapped in the cylinder head and/or blown into the catch can; thumbsup.gif
1.Block off one oil feed in the block (RB26’s have this standard)
2.Fit an appropriately sized restrictor to the other feed. The size of the oil pump is one of the determinates for the size of the restrictor, ie; a high flow, high pressure pump needs a smaller restrictor. Constant higher RPM needs a smaller restrictor etc.
3. Fit an external oil return from the rear of the cylinder head to the sump
4. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block
5. Machine around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil

It seems to me that many guys do #2, and some maybe #1. If you haven’t done #3, #4 or #5, then please remember that they are cylinder head off jobs. Drill out the oil return galleries in the head and block is pretty much self explanatory. As is machining (die grinder) around the oil return galleries to facilitate access for the oil to the return bgalleries. The external oil return fits to the rear of the cylinder head at the Y, there is a welsh plug there that you can remove and replace with a fitting. Then braided line to another fitting in the top of the LHS sump wing if you have one. If you don’t, then you should for circuit and drift work.For the oil return on an rb26, can you add a fitting to the standard sump or does it need to be a custom sump? Thanx

Piston Oil Squirters

Oil squirters are used in the imported turbo Skylines to help remove heat from the piston crown which improves reliability.

Ceramic coating the tops of the pistons works well but can create hotspots elsewhere. If ceramic coating, ceramic coat the whole combustion chamber.

Adapting the oil squirters to the RB30 block is possible; however the main bearing oil gallery is in a slightly different position to those in an RB20/25/26. Machining is required to make them fit.

With regards to the RB30 or 31 bottom ends how do you go about putting the oil squirters in?

Also, isn’t there a problem with harmonics?

1. Block mounted oil squirters can be fitted, but it is a bustard of a job and not all RB30 blocks are suitable. For temperature control, ceramic coating the piston crowns and oil retention coating the piston skirts works very effectively and costs less.

2. Grossly overrated, same bore and stroke as a 2JZ, never hear about harmonics in them. Proper balancing goes a long way and the block strength added by the 4wd sump adaptor helps as well.

The castings are slightly different, the oil gallery that the squirters have to be tapped into has variances in its diameter and the wall thickness varies as a result. I have found no common ground, S1 blocks are not better (thicker/more consistent) than S2 blocks, N/A blocks are no worse than turbo blocks, Skyline blocks are no better than Commondoor blocks. Basically you buy 10 X RB30’s and start measuring, only 1 or 2 will be suitable. It is still a bustard of a job to do, takes hours and a special jig, so very costly. Even then the result is not guaranteed.

My own RB31DET has oil squirters and no I am not pullng it out of the car to take photos. It doesn’t look any different to RB20/25/26 oil squirters anyway, there just isn’t the raised section where they bolt on.

We have built lots of RB30’s without block mounted oil squirters, they show no signs of additional wear or damage when they are serviced. My suggestion, forget block mounted oil squirters in RB30’s, ceramic coat the piston crowns, oil retention coat the skirts and move on.

The bottom of a RB 2wd block looks nothing like the bottom of an RB 4wd block. The 4wd block is much wider, has many more and much larger diameter bolt holes. As you would expect to hold up a big diff, drive shafts and large cv joints for the front drive.

I am using two 0.75mm ( 30 thou ) restrictors on my RB30 with RB25 NEO head ( solid lifters ). I have done approx 20 power runs on a dyno to 8000rpm and there isnt a drop of oil in my catch can – let alone all the street floggings its got. I also have a mate running a RB30 with RB26 head who is making 490 rwhp who is using the same size restrictors and has been driving his car for at least 6 months now and has no oil problems, his rev limiter is set at 8200.
Both are street cars, not circuit or drag. We modified the oil drain back holes with some die grinding, just to open them up a bit for increased flow and apart from the oil restrictors there are no other modifications. He is running a std RB26 pump where as mine is running a JUN pump.

etting the oil piump collar is is a 100% must do. especially when using the N1 pump as there has been MANY MANY failures.

I did the oil pump collar on my engine and i still used the standard oil pump which is not prone to cracking and breaking like the N1 pumps are.

so the answer is.. YES. please do the crank collar. if you dont your crazy.NP mate. it does not require welding but it will require your machineist to machine down the crank and fit it correctly. its not a easy job and you have to have the crank out of the engine to do the task.

The RIPPS RB30 comes with a custom sump extension as well as 4wd adapter, so I wouldnt have any issues with that. It also comes with forged pistons and rods.

So the only modifications I would need to do would be:

Re-Tap for RB26 head studs as they are larger
Redrill the lower bell housing bolts
and possibly extend lower cam cover? (not 100% sure what you mean)

I do have a few questions as I dont know if they pertain just to the 25/30 or also to the 26/30.

Do RB26 Nismo Motor mounts work on the RB30? Or do you need RB30 specific motor mounts?

Do I need to worry about the oil squirters with forged pistons and rods?

Also how about the oil and water pickup lines. Do I have to redrill holes in order to use the RB26 head?

It seems to be a pretty straightforward thing to do the 26/30 conversion in a GTR, however I want to make sure I have all my ducks in a row for when my motor gets here.
If RIPS is doing the bottom end, let him be your guide. He has the experience and also if anything goes wrong you both start from a known point.

He can make all the lines etc for you if you ask him, and will most likely tap the block for the 12mm head studs before he puts the bottom end together. He will also be able to redrill the correct bell housing holes etc for you. In fact, if he is doing the bottom end I’d get him to provide as much ‘plug and play’stuff as you can afford. RIPS can pretty much make anything you need as he has jigs/half cuts etc for a whole bunch of combinations, it’s not cheap but his fabrication is A1 and he knows what works. Removes the potential for ‘head scratching’.

The oil and water lines don’t need redrilling but you’ll need to account for the 38mm higher deck. Again, RIPS can make the stuff up and knows what you needed.

Block preperation after taking all the dags off and polishing everything up, send the block off to get machined/cleaned.

Now my particuler RB30 Block is on its second rebuild. Because the boreing process is increased in .10 increments & my motor has allready been oversized by .10 so this means that i will take it out a further .10 bringing it to a total of a .20 oversize over stock. (good idear to check this before you buy a RB30 Block and bring it home, as my motor will only be good for another rebuild, before you start running into heating problems, and issues with distorting cylinders). will this total bore of .20 bring my total engine displacement out to 3200ISH CC?

Also while your motor is at (INSERT YOUR MOTOR MACHINIST HERE) its a good idear to have all the centre jernals given a light hone & re-lined so that the crank sits dead straight. This prevents un-even wear on your bearings. So this is what i have at the moment:

(Guide FYI)
Machine & hone out on all 6 cylinders: $150 / $25 per cylinder.
Balancing of crank : ??? iam guessing around $70-$100
Acid clean:$70 ISH
Alligment/Machining of centre jernals: $100 ISH

So this is basicly everything you need for the BLOCK!
Note: to balance the crank or the centre jernals, i think you need pressure plate/flywheel & harmonic balancer that your going to use. so that they can balance it properly.

Water pump & Thermostat

All GTR, R32 RB20/25 & VL/R31 RB30 water pumps and thermostats are interchangeable.

R33 RB25 water pump have a slightly different bolt up pattern. The RB30E aftermarket water pump will set you back $70 to $90. The RB26 N1 water pump is anti-cavitation and flows more.

Genuine thermostats feel and look much better quality than aftermarket items. You will be required to use the RB20/25 thermostat housing to allow for stock hose positioning.


All of the RB20, 25 & 26 Flywheels are interchangeable.


The only modification to bolt up ancillaries is the Power steering bracket. The RB20/25/26 the top power steer bracket mount bolts up to the head.

Due to the extra deck height the rb30 has the top power steer bracket mount bolt up to the block. You will be required to grind the lug flat so the bracket is able to sit flat on the block. The R31 Skyline power steer bracket looks identical to the modified R32 power steering bracket. Look in to it.

Knock Sensors

The GTST knock sensors are the same knock sensor type as the RB30’s run. The RB26 knock sensors are a different type that utilizes a different bolt size; sleaving of the original block boss’s are required OR you can drill/tap the 2 blank boss’s above the std boss’s.


Use the corresponding ECU to the head you are using. It simplifies wiring, injector and sensor compatibility.
The R32 ECU’s can be re-mapped; AP Engineering PowerFC’s are also available.
Ensure the ECU you select supports the following features:

    • Closed Loop – Fuel economy & Emissions
    • Knock Sensor – Safety
    • Sequential Injection – Fuel economy & higher average power
  • 6 ignition drivers – Doesn’t overwork your coils

The R33 & R32 ECU’s will run the RB30DET with no problems for the run-in period.
However, do be sure to have it checked on a dyno just to make sure there are no issues elsewhere.


The standard RB20/RB25DET AFM’s are 80mm
The Z32 AFM (80mm) or the VH41/Q45 AFM (90mm).
The Z32 AFM supports a little over 300rwkw with the Q45 AFM supporting up to 350rwkw.


The R32 RB20/25 (260cc) and RB26 (440cc) injectors are top feed. The RB26’s run low imp. injectors the rb20/25 high imp. Injectors.

The R33 RB25DE/T run side feed injectors. The Turbo injectors are 370cc items.


A minimum of a GT30R or equivalent is required for the motor to rev nicely to 6500-7000rpm on the standard cams.

When using the stock turbo you will be required to use a longer piece of oil resistant hose for the oil drain pipe, you will also be required to bend and stretch the oil and water lines to meet with the turbo. It’s not a problem.

RB30/26 or 30/25 conversions into R32’s Turbo and manifold.

25/10 is way too small On boost its useless, just wheelspin.

If you are building a rb25/30 and want 450-500hp at the wheels a garrett GT35R 0.82 exhaust housing is the perfect choice for that hp target. you ‘could’ mount it on a low mount manifold, however you are better off using a properly made hi-mount manifold like a 6boost to gain the optimium performance. Also hi-mounts are 10x easier to work on
Could also use a custom adaptor plate to standard manifold which runs an external wastegate along with custom dump pipe

a custom adaptor plate can be used on the standard exhaust manifold to mount a bigger GT3540 turbo and a Tial 44 external wastegate.

30/25 conversion into my GTS4 and want to run a T04z 800hp turbo, but am concerned as to weather it will fit under the bonnet, or be that close it will burn the paint off it.

Another option is twin GTRS’s and a custom modified manifold based on chopped up GTR manifolds and a RB25 manifold.

. my rb26/30 has now done 2500 miles no problem whatsoever, but is under turbo,ed.
specs is as follow,

rb30 block decked bored to 86.5mm
spool rods, cp forged slugs.
acl bearings,arp bolts everywhere.
trust sump
1000cc injectors, twin in tank tomei fuel pumps.
hks drag 4″ intercooler..
1.0 tomei headgasket.
jun stage one cams 264/272 9.7mm lift.

full extreme turbomanfolds kit using a gt35r 1.06 rear 4″ dump
car made 680bhp 645lbs @ 5500rpm but drops off after 6500rpm,s

pm,ed leigh ref replacement kit as i have a buyer for mine.
thinking of going t4 flange and twin scroll.

leigh suggested gt4088r or 4294r
not sure what rears to use on either, or spooling times on either too?.

looking for 750-850 bhp @ the fly..with a good spool

http://st-tropez.mysite.orange.co.uk/ i run one mate in a 33gtr . homebuilt done 5500 miles in it now no probs,. search my name for threads. currently its running 2.5 bar boost on a gt4094r blower about 800bhp @ the fly..bernie uk.
ps i use the spool rods/cp piston package, proengines sump adapter, acl bearing, n1 oil/water pumps. 6 boost turbine kit, os giken quad plate clutch. car runs 8 bar oil pressure cold @ idle 5 bar hot @ idle. and it goes like a train.
here,s my old turbo spec sheet.


great result witht he GT4094R rockabliiy!

mild 2.6 – modded 2.6 – 3.0 with low mounts – 3.0 with neo head with medium-big single

So my question to you is: Why did you end up going for the GT4094R instead of the GT40R (GT4088R)?
And are you happy with the response compared to ur old GT35R?

hi guys, the gt35r was good spooled hard around 3500rpm with a 1.06 rear, it was a single t3 entry and looked like if was fading off towards 6500-6800rpms, talked to kyle @ 6 boost and to be honest it was a toss up between the 4088r and the 4094r. but there is no comparison, the gt4094r with a .96rear is a fooking animal.t4 twin scroll, full boost thats 2.5 bar by 5300, 1 bar by 3300. and it comes on so hard at 70mph in 3rd when you plant it all 4 wheel wheelspin.
fuel is pulp 98ron shell v-power. knock 35-45
power comes on strong from 3200rpm any gear. right through to 8k.

torque was 620lbs @ the fly no graph, bhp was 610 @ the hubs/wheels. and dyno chart below, haven,t 1/4 mile it yet. still on std gtr box which it will break if i do, mainly use the car for track work and road .

on the graph car ran 1.85bar boost but the wastgate spring was to weak, since then we haved upped the spring and boost to 2.6 bar, will be intersting to dyno this year.

here,s a clip when it ran at anglesey north wales at 1.3bar november 08.


shifting aroung 7600-7800 but went to 8350 a couple of times, logged on the ecu,
bov,s yes twin blitz super seqentials,cant hear them over the turbo..

fuel is shell 98 ron, 1000cc,s injectors, twin entry rail,twin tomei intank pumps feeding rail at bothe ends, 10mm return to tank..

advice/pictures on how to do the fitting to the block for the rear Turbo Drain? Looking at it today its a bit of a pain. It it very close to a bolt which goes through the sump adaptor ans into the sump. This bolt has to be ground down on one side to get at the fitting properly.. On top of that, if the fitting protrudes too far its going to foul on the axle casting… (hope you are following me here…) smile.gif

The front turbo I am draining to a dash 8 fitting on top of the wing of the sump.. so that’s no prob..

for mine i just took out the std fitting in the block, went down to pirtek and got a t-piece. I then put that in the block and ran rubber hose from each drain to the t, easy! (hose has heat wrap on it too)


All of the RB gearboxes have the same bolt up pattern.
The R33 Series 1 and Series 2 gearbox’s all use a push type clutch.
The R32 RB20DET gearbox doesn’t like the 3ltr torque, I stripped third gear with only ~180rwkw.

To put things in to perspective, the rb30det making ~180rwkw was making the same amount of torque as an rb25det
making 300rwkw.
The RB25DET gearbox is known to hold up to 450-500rwkw and is fine for the RB30DET

Engine Mounts

The RB30DET block is approximately 38mm taller than any of the other RB blocks.
This causes a few fouling issues with the bonnet when used with the high RB25 stock inlet manifold/plenum.

The RB26 inlet manifold/plenum doesn’t have these issues as it sits much lower.

If you want to run the stock RB25 inlet manifold/plenum you will have to lower the engine by 15mm on the driver’s side
and 12mm on the passenger’s side.
You will then be required to remove the lower lip of the radiators shroud otherwise the fan will munch it up.
I also found it worthwhile to relieve the gearbox and centre bearing mount slightly. In an attempt to reduce driveline
angles to an absolute minimum.

One good reason to use the RB26 head.

Factory Cam Specs

This information is courtesy of Tomei’s web site. It may not be 100% correct.

VCT/NVCS, experimentation has indicated the more power you make, the lower the VCT/NVCS engagement rpm will be. This is reflected when comparing the rpm of NVCS engagement for the turbo and non-turbo engines.

The only way to find is by experimentation or through the use of a computer simulated engine dyno package such as Dyno2003 or even better and much more accurate do two dyno runs, one with the vct engaged and the other with it disengaged, where the two graphs overlap this is the perfect rpm to have the vct engaging.

Cam Belt

I positioned a tensioner above the water pump as per the pic below. Don’t worry about drilling in to the water galley
located approximately 9mm deep as you can tape up the studs thread and it won’t leak.
Ensure the studs hole is drilled and tapped square!

Courtesy of Cobra30
Due to the extra deck height of the RB30 Block you require a belt that is approximately 11 teeth longer.
A total of around 152 teeth will be needed the Dayco part number for this setup is 94407.

Courtesy of Cobra30

Using a tensioner and idler we found the timing belt tension to be greater than the factory recommended spec of

We used a second tensioner in place of the idler bearing (lower bearing) in order to bring the belt tension down to the
factory recommended spec of 20kg’s.
This gives us much more adjustment not to mention how much cheaper a new tensioner is compared to an idler.
Use the RB20/25 lower cam belt cover as the RB30 cam belt cover is slightly taller and fouls with the top tensioner.

It is possible to use the factory tensioner and idler locations however once again you will be required to use two tensioners to get the correct belt tension.

I personally do not recommend this method as the belt comes too close together.

It uses a Gates POWERGRIP GT2 p/n 1200 8MGT 30 It measures 1200mm long, 8mm pitch on teeth, 150 teeth, and 25mm wide, it was cut down from 30mm in the factory.

There is also a Bosch belt that can apparently be used – VB-T866, I have no further information on it.

There has been some reports of a harmonic effect when using the POWERGRIP belt as the tooth profile is apparently slightly different to the cam and crank gears.

When marking out the position to drill and tap the upper tensioner do be sure to dummy it up to ensure the belt and tensioners clear both the lower and upper cam belt covers.

GTR/GTS4 Special Notes

The RB30 shoehorn in to the GTR and GTS4 engine bays is a huge squeeze. Due the the 4wd the ability to lower the engine has been removed. Engine and bonnet fouling issues occur. It is imperative a GTR style low mount position inlet manifold/plenum is used. The Bonnet support structures must be slightly trimmed to clear the cam belt cover. The GTR’s standard turbo pipe that has twinturbo written on it also fouls the bonnet, the bonnet support structure in that position must also be trimmed.


How hard can I rev the RB30 safely?

As with the R32 GTR, R32 RB20DET and R33 RB25DET S1 motors they all have a small oil pump crank drive.
Excessive rev’s 7500rpm on all of these motors will eventually see a failed oil pump.
That being said the RB30 ‘harmonics’ are overrated. They rev no problems to 7500rpm, however at this rpm you most
definitely should be running a full oil pump crank drive from Jun or ProEngines and ensure the motor is well balanced.
For the ultimate reliability anything past this and you would seriously want to look at forged rods, pistons and an
aftermarket (ATI) harmonic balancer.
Do all these things and providing you have big enough cams to support the airflow and the motor will rev and be
One last thing… Back in the Bathurst days the Gibson motorsport team restricted the RB26’s to 7000rpm. Much over
this and the motor saw a much shorter life. So as with all RB’s keep rev’s to a bare minimum if you want it to last.

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5. $100+ Clear Tail lights and Headlights AU IMP/DIST www.motorware.com.au

Light / small / universal appeal prob OK margin
6. WRX Custom Headlights MFR AU SLACE 0414271674 $xxx Lights -Strut Braces- Dials DIST AU www.cybercentury.com.au 6.********$250 ea Brake Rotors -Slotted & Crossdrilled MFR AU www.dba.com.au Great product but hi$ -heavy / large/ Universal fitment Margin?
7 $1500 -2500 Intercoolers / Turbos MFR AU www.AVOturbo.com
PRO’s= well dev Aust made but $$$’s Large / heavy Margin maybe OK
8 $100 – 2000 Suspension components WRX MFR AU www.noltec.com.au
GEN MFR AU www.whiteline.com.au GEN MFR AU www.K-Mac.com.au PRO’s = well dev product ranges CON’s Heavy / large/
9. $250-450 Blow off valves – MFR AU www.turbosmart.com.au PRO’s = Light / small/ first mod to turbo cars after airpod filter. Cons mid$$$’s
10. $1000-2000 ECU’s – Car Computer Elec Fuel Control Systems
MFR AU www.Wolfems.com.au MFR AU www.motec.com.au – mentioned in Fast&Fur. MFR AU www.enginemanagementsystem.com DIST AU WRX www.ecutek.com.auPRO’s =LIght weight / small / good margin maybe / Good reputation. 5 or 6 makes available mfd Au CONS Hi$


Thanks to Skylines Australia for making my RB30DET and this guide a reality.
A really big thanks to all those over at SAU, especially Christian (Prank) for spending his hard earned $$ on SAU and
Skylines Downunder who have also shared their knowledge.

Head over to the current RB30 Thread at Skylines Australia.
I am sure you will be thankful for this guide when you check out how large the thread is.

A big thaks to all those that have done the rb30det combination In the past and taken pictures, some of those I have
included in this guide

Audi’s five-cylinder engines of the 1980s were powerful

Audi TT RS 8J 2.5L TFSI 395 HP 5 Cylinder Turbo Charged Engine Block

Audi’s five-cylinder engines of the 1980s were powerful, sporty engines that reinforced the brand’s “Vorsprung durch Technik” commitment.

These five-cylinder engines combined the efficiency of a four-cylinder with the power of a six-cylinder, resulting in lighter and more compact engine packages. A turbocharged version was a sensation.

Engine CodeCEPA
Engine typeFive-cylinder inline engine
Displacement151.3 cu in (2480 cc)
Maximum power335.2 hp (250 kW) @ 5400–6500 rpm
Maximum torque331.9 lb ft (450 Nm) @ 1600–5300 rpm
Valves per cylinder4 – Sodium Filled for cooling
Bore3.24 in (82.5 mm)
Stroke3.65 in (92.8 mm)
Compression ratio10 : 1
Firing order1-2-4-5-3
Fuel systemFSI (homogeneous) direct injection with demand-based high and low
fuel pressure regulation
Engine management without an air mass meter
Fuel grade91 AKI
Engine weight403.4 lb (183 kg)
Engine managementBosch MED 9.1.2
Exhaust emission standardLEV II
Emissions controlSensors upstream and downstream of the catalytic converter

Cylinder Block
Because of its very short overall length, this engine lends itself very well to transverse mounting.

Material Selection
The cylinder block is made from high tensile strength cast iron. The strength of this material is needed because the connecting rod bearings and main bearings have relatively small widths. Piston cooling jets are mounted in the cylinder block.
The liquid sealants using during engine assembly and repair are specifically designated for various components.
Oil Pan
The oil pan is constructed from two parts. The cast upper part acts as a baffle plate and is bolted to the crankcase. This upper part supports the oil pump, which is bolted to the cylinder block.
The lower part of the oil pan is made from sheet steel. It houses Oil Level Thermal Sensor G266 and the drain plug.
Both the front sealing flange and lower timing case cover are sealed against the cylinder block by a liquid sealant.

Crankshaft Drive
The forged steel crankshaft is supported by six main bearings.
A torsional vibration damper reduces radial vibration by the pistons and crankshaft. The damper, referred to as a viscodamper in repair
literature, uses a high viscosity silicone.

Audi TT RS 2.5 ltr TFSI Reciprocating component Specifications
Center-to-center distance between cylinders3.46 in (88 mm)
Block height8.66 in (220 mm)
Connecting rod length5.66 in (144 mm)
Crankshaft main bearings6
Main bearing diameter2.28 in (58 mm)
Connecting rod bearing diameter188 in (47.8 mm)

Pistons and Connecting Rods
To better respond to high loads, the pistons are a “boxed” design. They have an asymmetrical skirt with beveled box walls on the thrust and counter-thrust sides. They are manufactured from a high heat resistant alloy and have cast in ring lands for the upper piston ring. Lower weight and low oil consumption characteristics were designed into these pistons.

Mini headland rings 451_027a
N2, taper-face piston ring
N1, asymmetrical, spherical,
steel nitride + PVD*
N3, DSF** ring with
tapered lands

*PVD = Physical Vapor Deposition is a coating process in which
the coating material is physically vapor-deposited (by kinetic
or impact energy) on a material in a vacuum environment.

  • *Top-beveled oil control ring with coil expander
    Reinforced threads M9 bolt
    Optimized design with
    large cross section
TurboClub-Section-Audi TT RS

Audi TT RS 8J Models Body Specifications

The original Audi TT, named after the legendary “Tourist Trophy” race in the United Kingdom, was a milestone in automotive design.

The design followed pure geometry, with the central theme being a circle reflected in the wheel arches, roofline arches, and both the front and rear fascias of the vehicle.

The front of the TT RS features the Audi marque single frame grille. The insert is shiny black bounded with a matte aluminum finish. Large side air intakes with flared edges draw air into the engine compartment. The left intake routes air to the transmission, while the right intake routes air to an auxiliary radiator. The turbocharger draws in air through the upper section of the grille while the intercooler sits behind the lower segment of the grille.

The front valance has been designed as a splitter, and when coupled with the rear spoiler, provides perfect aerodynamic balance.

The Audi TT RS, developed by quattro GmbH,breathes new life into old traditions.

Thanks to a turbocharged 2.5-liter five cylinder engine,permanent all-wheel drive, and a sporty yet comfortable suspension and design, both the RS Coupe and RS Roadster are uncompromising sports cars.

The production of the Audi TT RS involves the use of two factories. The Audi Space Frame (ASF) body is constructed in Ingolstadt, Germany, while final assembly is completed in Györ, Hungary.

The TT RS is clearly the flagship of the TT model series. The muscular sheet metal body, tautly curved surfaces, and sharp lines give an impression of sculpture in motion. From the side, the 18-inch wheels, large brakes, and flared wheel openings of the TT RS instantly catch the eye. Matte aluminum door mirror covers are standard.

The headlight design is a distinguishing Audi characteristic. Xenon plus headlights, standard on the TT RS, are accentuated by daytime running lights comprised of 12 LEDs arranged in a straight line.

8J Audi TT RS Rear View
The rear bumper includes an integrated diffuser insert that surrounds two large, oval tailpipes.
A wide, stationary spoiler increases downforce on the rear axle, improving stability at high speeds. The automatic spoiler featured on the standard production TT is available on the TT RS as an option.

Audi TT RS Models Body SpecificationsCoupeRoadster
Curb weight3196.6 lb (1450 kg)3328.9 lb (1510 kg)
Maximum gross weight4034.4 lb (1830 kg)4034.4 lb (1830 kg)
Luggage capacity (seats folded down)10.2 cu ft / 24.7 cu ft
(290 liter / 700 liter)
8.8 cu ft (250 liter)
Fuel tank capacity15.8 gal (60 liter)15.8 gal (60 liter)
Drag coefficient0.320.34

Audi Space Frame Technical Design

The hybrid Audi Space Frame (ASF) first used in the 2008 TT is also used in the TT RS Coupe and TT RS Roadster.
Sheet steel and aluminum sheet metal components, aluminum castings, and aluminum extruded sections form the TT RS body structure. Vehicle weight distribution is optimized by using sheet steel components in the rear facia, improving driving dynamics and acceleration.

Aluminum castings Sheet aluminum components Aluminum extruded sections Sheet steel components

Aluminum castings
Sheet aluminum components
Aluminum extruded sections
Sheet steel components

Audi TT RS TurboClub.com

Audi TT 1.8 Turbo Upgrade to Audi TT RS 2.5 Turbo AWD

What’s a used Audi TT coupe like?

Whoever said familiarity breeds contempt has obviously never spent time with the Audi TT.

The TT’s silhouette has become very familiar since its launch, but the car itself has become more and more appealing over time. 

Wife Pauline and I love the 2010 Audi TT styling and uniqueness, especially in Black duco. So upgrading to a Black Manual that she loves!

So much so, in fact, that it’s been our current TurboClub.com Hero favourite coupé for four years with no problems. All images are of both our Audi TT coupes and the eagle eyed would spot we bought both from same Awesome Dealer George.

We have not taken delivery of the TT RS yet as Pauline in hospital right now. Ambulance trip to hospital day before due to pick up the RS for blood pressure problem, I say from the excitement of getting this weapon! Going to have to Drive like Miss Daisy the 300 kilometers home after picking it up!

12/02/2022 – Just picked up Pauline from hospital today so arranging to go to Melbourne to swap the TT’s next week tue/wed maybe!

However, this isn’t about our cheaper version sitting lower down the range, or even the sportier TT S.

Which 2010 Audi TT coupe did Pauline and I Trade up to?

No, this is about the top dog with the big gun: the range-topping Audi TT RS. 0-62mph in a claimed 3.7seconds.

Now, it’s excellent value for money, too. It was website What Car? Used Car of the Year winner in the Coupe section in 2017.


By Pauline Campbell

 We did it. Welcome to the real thing. Audi TT RS Quattro. Super car!

Introducing the “Beast.” Audi TT RS Quattro. RS= Renn Sport = Race Sport. Our little previous Audi TT 1.8 Turbo FWD’s big brother. Big mean brother – in a civilised way. Greg did a magnificent job driving the 600klms plus, round trip to Melbourne and back. “Where are the headrests?” exclaimed the passenger. The seats are worth $7,000 in themselves. They mold to the body. We figured the lack of headrests are due to a HELMET wearing racing individual needing the space – for the helmet! That would make sense. This car was a gift. To us. For us. By us. We expected to paint the house. We are denied international travel. This decision was totally mine, Greg didn’t say a word, could not believe it. In fact he still can’t. He is so wrapt to have it. So am I.

There will be few cars currently on the road who can beat it (for 0-100 @ 3.7seconds) speed. That is what it was built for. Not that we will be thrashing it around the hills. Greg has a Jeep for that. We stuck to the speed limit of 110, with everyone flying past us oblivious to the fact that we could blow them out of the water! A beauty of a white convertible Lamborghini was parked there .”Can the Audi beat that?” I asked. ” Reversing ” he said. I gave our little Audi trade-in a gentle pat on its little spoiler. as we left it behind. Thanks for the pleasure.

Melbourne traffic is crazy. The West Gate isn’t as I remember going over it to work the Ships. The barriers (to prevent the Jumpers!) hinder any view and the traffic is so horrendous yet the City is quiet. St. Kilda is derelict, like a ghetto. This is St.Kilda. with Luna Park, cake shops, markets and loads of people around..so many visits there did we enjoy. May be busier on the weekends. I hope so . Daniel Andrews labour government has wrecked a once proud and vital City. I see it..in the empty shopfronts, the deserted streets, the lack of people vibe.

I had a drive myself today, just locally. Bit heavier on the turns because of the AWD, louder but basically very similar in feel . How did that hill disappear so quickly going up it?!

Impressing for its unbeatable combination of talents, its class and solidity and its affordability.

It’s a hardtop (Coupé) which means it offers the TT’s usual choice of practicality or al fresco thrills.

Our version has the TFSI 2.5-litre turbocharged five-cylinder petrol engine, which pumps out – wait for it – a mighty 395bhp.

Yes, you did read that correctly, and it’s all sent manage-ably to all four wheels via a six-speed manual gearbox. That gives it some seriously impressive performance figures, as well as awesome all wheel grip.

After the radical styling of the original Audi TT, this second-generation version might look a little underwhelming. However, underneath its same-again body lies a full-on sports car that’s stunning to drive and tonnes of fun.

The majority of the car’s chassis and bodywork is aluminium, making it lighter than the first car, yet it’s bigger and has slightly more room inside. This weight loss gives the TT amazing agility and, combined with the peppy engine options, it’s very fast in a straight line and grippy round the bends.

The ride is firm but not excessively so. Despite the performance, the TT RS is easy to drive and refined at low speeds.

The interior feels solid and durable, and quality materials are used throughout. The rear seats are suitable only for the smallest of children, however, but the boot is a good size for a coupe.

 The standard six-speed manual gearbox is slick and well matched to the engines 400 HP and 0-62mph in a claimed 3.7seconds..

Some TTs also have the Magnetic Ride suspension system fitted, which can be used in Comfort or Sport settings, although the standard suspension is brilliant anyway.

All models are well equipped, with climate control, alloys, electronic stability control, curtain airbags and half-leather sports seats as standard. Metallic paint is essential for good residual values.

Audi’s quattro four-wheel drive system can shuffle up to 100% of the TT RS’s power to the front or rear wheels as required, helping transfer all of the engine’s power onto the road’s surface with devastating effect – in both wet or dry conditions.

The Coupé is faster than the Roadster, rushing from 0-62mph in a claimed 3.7seconds. Then will then carry on to 155mph, unless you have it unshackled further by Audi for an extra cost, in which case the top speed increases to 174mph. The manual gearbox is usefully responsive when you’re driving hard and changes smoothly when you’re cruising. Ticking the sports exhaust option box is tempting, but Audi’s lovely five-cylinder engine sounds superb even through the standard tailpipes

The TT RS is quicker than the A110, 718 Cayman S and BMW M2 Competition, and the massive amount of grip it produces means it can cover ground at a staggering rate.

Every RS comes with a part-Alcantara steering wheel, which is much like the one you’ll find in Audi’s flagship performance car, the R8. Among the controls on this wheel are two large round buttons – one to start the engine and another to flick between driving modes. The steering, gearbox, accelerator and optional adaptive dampers are all made more aggressive in Dynamic mode, and it’s here that the TT RS feels best when driven hard.

Aside from loads of road noise at motorway speeds the TT RS produces very little wind noise. Switching to Comfort mode quietens the exhaust note to a sensible level, too.

The car manages a convincing split personality, though. Fitted with standard 10mm-lower springs and 19in alloy wheels, its ride is certainly firm but is also beautifully controlled, and rarely uncomfortable as a result. The same is true on the optional 20in wheels. Those adaptive dampers add greater spectrum to the ride, depending on which driving mode you select, so are worth adding.

The Audi TT RS interior layout, fit and finish

It’s a case of close but no cigar for both Porsche’s Cayman and Boxster and also BMW’s M2 when trying to match Audi’s interior quality. The Alpine A110 isn’t even close. The interiors of lesser TTs, with their soft plastics, chrome accents and beautifully damped switches, are already mightily impressive, and there’s more of the same in the TT RS. It’s the little details, such as climate controls that are integrated stylishly into the air vents, that make it feel special but also very easy to use.

Audi’s Virtual Cockpit is fitted as standard behind the steering wheel, where you’d normally expect to find analogue instrument dials. Its 12.3in digital screen displays your speed and engine revs while also acting as a hub for all of the infotainment functions, such as the stereo, Bluetooth and sat-nav.

The whole thing is easy to use while you’re driving, unlike the touchscreen systems in the Cayman and A110. Instead of struggling to hit icons with your fingers, you control the TT RS’s system by twisting and pressing a big rotary dial between the front seats, with some handy shortcut buttons available to take you directly to specific functions.

It’s a similar system to the M2’s iDrive, and works almost as well. Apple CarPlay and Android Auto smartphone mirroring are standard in the TT RS, which means you can access Waze and Google Maps through the infotainment screen. 

There’s lots of adjustment to the steering wheel and the sports seats, but the pedals feel too close to you and the seat is set relatively high – more like that of a hatchback.

The view forward is good and judging where the nose of the car ends is pretty easy. However, both versions of the TT RS suffer poor rear visibility — the Coupé because of its sloping rear roofline. Front and rear parking sensors are standard, though, and a rear-view camera is on the options sheet. Effective LED headlights are standard, too, which you can upgrade to even better adaptive ‘Matrix’ units. 

 What are the most common problems with a used Audi TT coupe?

Owners are generally very happy with their cars, and there are few reported faults.

The leather seats can wear quickly – particularly the side bolsters of the seat base. You can help prevent excess wear by regularly applying a quality leather cream, but it can’t restore the seat if it’s already badly worn.

The front brakes can make a squealing noise, although it doesn’t appear to reduce the brakes performance. There is no exact cause and sometimes only replacing the brake pads cures it.

A few dashboard and glovebox rattles can appear over time and the door seals can whistle and higher speeds. Poor-quality paintwork has also been reported, although it is rare.

Our 2010 TT 8J 1.8 of this generation at 70K miles seems to be bullet-proof so far.

Basic Information for my article was gleaned and re-edited from What Car? They have a CAR buying service – Find out more

 2021 EcoBoost Mustang | Customer Build

2021 EcoBoost Mustang | Owner Ryan C. from the Vegas area

 2021 EcoBoost Mustang | Customer Build

AmericanMuscle Inspires with Essential Mods for a New Ride

PAOLI, Pa. (January 17th, 2022) – Mustang parts authority,AmericanMuscle (AM) is back with another installment of their “Customer Builds” YouTube series. The new video features a shadow black, 2021 EcoBoost Mustang with thoughtfully chosen appearance, interior, and performance mods. AM host, Justin Dugan chats virtually with owner Ryan C. from the Vegas area to find out which parts were first on his list and why. The video, along with Ryan’s corresponding build page gives muscle car enthusiasts food for thought when it comes to customizing their own ride at home.

“Your car is the perfect example for guys out there who maybe just picked up something new and are looking for a great place to start.” – Justin Dugan

Seeking that old-school styling, Ryan added aluminum louvers for the rear window along with louvered quarter window covers to complete the look. Inside, he installed a red shifter knob and some carbon fiber trim, with plans for the complete kit down the road. The Roush intake with the Borla ATAK axle-back exhaust boosted performance while delivering that ‘mean’ sound Ryan was after. Future mods for Ryan’s aptly named ‘Batmobile’ include staggered wheels, dark gray racing stripes, and a body kit.

Ryan’s Mustang “is the perfect example for guys out there who maybe just picked up something new and are looking for a great place to start,” says Justin. Right out of the gate, his choices improved not only the performance and sound of his ride but also its looks, inside and out. Viewers can head to Ryan’s build page on AM’s website to see a full breakdown of the mods he chose for his 2021 EcoBoost Mustang.

View it here: https://www.americanmuscle.com/profiles/179671?from=0

Alfa Romeo have produced some beautiful and turbo performance oriented vehicles

Alfa Romeo

The GTV TURBODELTA was produced only in ’79 and ’80 in just 400 specimens, all marked by the abbreviation on the booklet: “factory – Alfa Romeo type – Auto Delta 116 36” even if the main distinctive feature at first glance, certainly remains the iconic rainbow – colored band, located at the bottom of the side.

Alfa Romeo Alfetta GTV Turbodelta: in search of power


To replace the Giulia Sprint GT (the famous ‘Bertone coupé’), Alfa Romeo decided to turn to its recently introduced sedan, the Alfetta, to seek inspiration for a GT version which would become the 2-litre powered GTV (‘V’ for Veloce) in 1976.  Designed by Giugiaro (who had created Ital Design, branching out on his own), this elegant coupé was a contrast to its predecessor: more rectangular, it was completely inline with the styling of the 1970s. Continuing with an ‘Italian’ engine, it gained better equilibrium of masses thanks to the adoption of a transaxle system.  However, it lacked a bit of peps with only 130 horsepower from the 2 litre DOHC 4 cylindre. Alfa Romeo would undertake a more powerful solution: the Alfetta GTV Turbodelta.

Initially, the 116 project begun in 1967 was meant to include amongst its power-train options a V8 that ultimately did not make the development cut for the presentation of the GTV in 1974.  At its launch, it only came in the 1.8 litre, 122 horsepower, version. The range would be modified in 1976 with the disappearance of the 1,800 cc, giving way to a 1,600 cc producing a measly 109 hp at the bottom of the range (an astonishing proposition that would only sell less than 2,000 units in total), and to a 122 hp 2.0 litre (which would increase to 130 hp in 1978).  The car was satisfactory in performance with the two litre but more power would be necessary considering the quality of the GTV’s chassis and balance.

The Autodelta team did eventually find a solution that was quite innovative at the time: to stick a Turbo KKK on the 2 litre in order to gain power and torque.  Thus they achieved gross power of 150 hp and torque of 23.5 mkg. The maximum speed, meanwhile, reached 205 km/h. Not bad. Originally, the idea was to develop this version, called the Turbodelta, as a kit to be sold through dealers.  Finally, the cars were produced by Autodelta beginning in 1979, of which eventually 400 units were produced in order to comply with the group 4 homologation rules.

Competing with Porsche and Saab

When it came out, the GTV Turbodelta was not cheap: it cost 15 million lire, 50% more expensive than a standard GTV 2000.  Its only two competitors equipped with a turbo at the time were called Porsche 924 Turbo and Saab 900 Turbo: the turbo phenomena was just starting and wouldn’t reach its peak before the mid 80s.  Compared to a simple 2000, the Turbodelta differed mainly by its coloured side panels, as well as by its Autodelta badges. Side striping sometimes disappears over the years, so today sometimes only the Autodelta logo will tell you if you’re looking at one of the authentic and rare ones.

Alfetta GTV Turbodelta Group 4 is part of those cars that were transformed into Gr.4 by Autodelta, under the guidance of Carlo Chiti, as “experimental cars” that is, were modified to test their efficiency and to try new technical solutions, which would then be adopted in racing. The car has always been in rally configuration and some modifications on it are unique, precisely because of the experimentation to improve performances. Additional Intercooling by the tried and proven Air to Liquid method considerably reduces inlet air temperatures allowing for more boost and power safely.

Alfa Romeo have produced some beautiful and performance oriented vehicles over the past decades as illustrated below.

Acura Battles To The Finish In Thrilling Title Fight At Petit Le Mans

Acura Battles To The Finish In Thrilling Title Fight At Petit Le Mans 2021

Acura by Honda
  • 2021-11-14

Wayne Taylor Racing’s Ricky Taylor fights to the final turns, but comes up short in IMSA championship contest
Acura secures Michelin Endurance Cup for long-distance events; Wayne Taylor Racing takes drivers’ and teams’ endurance titles
Magnus with Archangel finishes sixth in GTD with their Acura NSX GT3 Evo
After 10 months of racing across the country, the battle for the 2021 IMSA WeatherTech SportsCar Championship came down to the final three corners of today’s 10-hour Petit Le Mans endurance race, when a passing attempt by Ricky Taylor in his Wayne Taylor Racing Acura ARX-05 came up less than a half-second short; with Taylor finishing third to Felipe Nasr.

Taylor’s last lap lunge on Nasr in Turn 10 of the 12-turn Michelin Raceway Road Atlanta originally appeared successful, but Taylor briefly ran off-course after executing the pass and Nasr was able to regain the advantage, securing the Manufacturers’ and Drivers’ championships for the Action Express duo of Nasr and co-driver Pipo Derani.

Earlier, the Meyer Shank Racing Acura of Dane Cameron, Helio Castroneves and Juan Pablo Montoya took control of the middle portion of today’s season finale race. But damage from debris struck by Castroneves in the darkness with one hour remaining sent the #60 ARX-05 behind the wall for repairs, before returning to finish sixth.

Acura NSX GT3 Evo

In the production-based GTD category, the Magnus with Archangel trio of Andy Lally, John Potter and Spencer Pumpelly finished the season in their Acura NSX GT3 Evo on a strong note, successfully avoiding a mid-race restart crash that caught out several other GTD competitors, then running as high as third before finishing sixth.

Petit Le Mans Race Results

3rd – #10 Wayne Taylor Racing Acura ARX-05 DPi
Drivers Ricky Taylor, Filipe Albuquerque, Alexander Rossi
6th – #60 Meyer Shank Racing Acura ARX-05 DPi
Drivers Dane Cameron, Helio Castroneves, Juan Pablo Montoya
6th GTD – Magnus with Archangel Acura NSX GT3 Evo
Drivers Andy Lally, John Potter, Spencer Pumpelly
DPi Manufacturers’ Championship

Drivers’ Championship (unofficial, after 10 of 10 rounds)

  1. Cadillac 3,666 1. Pipo Derani, Felipe Nasr 3,407
  2. Acura 3,553 2. Filipe Albuquerque, Ricky Taylor 3,395
  3. Mazda 3,421 3. Harry Tincknell, Oliver Jarvis 3,264
    Michelin Endurance Cup

Drivers (unofficial, after 4 of 4 endurance races)

  1. Cadillac 51 1. Filipe Albuquerque, Ricky Taylor, Alexander Rossi 46
  2. Acura 47 2. Oliver Jarvis, Harry Tincknell, Jonathan Bomarito 40
  3. Mazda 44 3. Dan Cameron 34

David Salters (President and Technical Director, Honda Performance Development) on today’s race and the 2021 season: “Ten months of racing this season, and 10 hours of endurance racing tonight, and it all came down to the final 10 seconds. We’re massively proud of all of our Acura Motorsports teams. We began the season with an historic win for Acura at the Rolex 24 at Daytona; and we finished it at the penultimate corner of the final race of the season here at Petit Le Mans. Thank you to our awesome teams, brilliant drivers and magnificent HPD associates.”

Helio Castroneves (#60 Meyer Shank Racing Acura ARX-05): Finished sixth with co-drivers Dane Cameron and Juan Pablo Montoya: “It’s such a shame. The MSR AutoNation / SiriusXM Acura was doing well, I think we could have battled for the win. I was running the normal line on the back straightaway, but it was pitch black, you couldn’t see anything. I ran over something and it destroyed the floor of the car: I lost all downforce and couldn’t turn the car. We had to come to the garage and fix the floor. The team did an amazing job to fix it, and the car was back on rails. It’s just very frustrating, we could have finished with a bang. But I have to thank Mike and the team for allowing me to come onboard this weekend and race, I definitely missed the Acura!”

Ricky Taylor (#10 Wayne Taylor Racing ARX-05) finished third with co-drivers Filipe Albuquerque and Alexander Rossi: “I mean, we’re racing really hard. The championship literally came down to the last corner. After last year, I’m happy for those guys [Action Express]. They deserve it; they had a great year. I hate it for Filipe [Albuquerque]; he drove such a great stint to pass them. I made a little mistake on my out lap [exiting pit lane following his final stop]. But I’m so thankful to have HPD, Konica Minolta and Acura behind us. I will do everything I can to pay them back in California and at the shop in Indy. I’m really bummed, but Daytona is close. This is a short offseason, and we’re a great team.”

Fast Facts

In four seasons of Daytona Prototype Competition, Acura has won two overall IMSA Manufacturers’ Championships; two Drivers’ and Teams’ Championships, and one sweep of the Michelin Endurance Cup titles for Manufacturers, Drivers and Teams.
Acura will return in 2022 for a final season of IMSA WeatherTech SportsCar Championship DPi competition before debuting in the new premier LMDh prototype category in 2023.

Acura has an impressive motorsport pedigree.
Testing new technologies in a racing environment is a great way to ensure their reliability and help spread awareness for the brand’s credibility. If a car can drive at full throttle on a racetrack for 24 hours straight, it will certainly last much longer in the hands of customers. Acura gets this.

Since the brand’s inception, they have been involved in SCCA and IMSA GT Championship, two prominent series in the US. They won the SCCA World Championship in 1997 using the NSX and Integra, proving the cars’ performance chops. In the 2000s, the brand even developed its own LMP1 car, which raced admirably in the prestigious 24 Hours of Le Mans. More recently, an ILX raced in the 25 Hours of Thunderhill, won in its class, and came in 8th place overall.

And the NSX was the world’s first supercar you could use daily.
The first car to be classified as a supercar was the Lamborghini Miura, in 1966. From that point, there have been many supercars, and most of them Italian. While they were all undoubtedly very fast, beautiful and exotic, you couldn’t really use them as a daily-driver. They had poor reliability, running costs were exorbitant and they weren’t practical.

And then in 1990, the Acura NSX arrived.

Just like the Italian stallions, it was mid-engined and aerodynamic. It could reach speeds greater than 300 km per hour and rev to 8,300 rpm. However, unlike its Italian competitors, it was reliable, easy to use, had good visibility and didn’t require a second mortgage to maintain.

This brand’s entry into the market was earth-shaking. So profound was the entry of Honda’s luxury division that it shook the automobile market like few other innovations had done earlier; more than anything else, it showed that a Japanese brand too, was capable of competing with European and American brands when it came to luxury automobiles. It permanently altered the image of Japanese cars being models that were economical and targeted at the lower middle income consumer. Acura’s history was now firmly in place.

The story of how Acura was created, launched and then grew into a major force in a competitive marketplace is a compelling testament not just to the company’s products, but to the people who had the foresight to establish the first premium Japanese luxury car brand. History shows that Acura not only redefined the luxury car, it permanently changed the luxury marketplace from a slow evolution among a handful of brands to fierce competition between many. While today Japanese luxury brands are taken for granted, this was not the case in the early 1980s, when the groundbreaking Legend sedan was still on the drawing board.

Acura is the luxury vehicle division of Honda, launched in March of 1986. While Honda was already a successful auto manufacturer in the 1980s, the Acura brand was an opportunity to show they could make luxurious and high-tech vehicles to appeal to the American market. Acura was and continues to be at the leading edge of Honda innovation. Acura was the first Japanese luxury manufacturer in the US, and its history is full of firsts.

The Acura Plan
The early 1980s were a tumultuous time for the U.S. car market. Gas shortages, economic malaise and new government regulations from the 1970s caused an upheaval in the public’s buying habits and the products available to the public changed dramatically. Small was big and Japanese manufacturers such as Honda had forged reputations of reliability, economical operation and low price that were the envy of many competitors. Even the least expensive Honda offered a unique and fun driving experience, and the company’s reputation for reliability was second to none. Honda had also established a record of technological innovation (such as the CVCC engine) that consumers embraced— and that sent competitors back to the drawing boards.

The success Honda had enjoyed was emblematic of these changes. With the right product (the groundbreaking Civic) at the right time (the gas crisis of the early 70s), Honda sales growth had been phenomenal. Subsequent models such as the Accord and Prelude proved Honda had more than just good timing going for it. Following its philosophy of assembling cars where it sells them, Honda embarked on an ambitious plan to begin assembling cars in the United States and broke ground on a new plant in Ohio in 1980.

As work began on the Marysville, Ohio manufacturing plant, there were signs of change in the car market. The economy was improving, and luxury cars were starting to increase in sales volume. Manufacturers such as BMW, Mercedes-Benz and Audi captured the public’s eye with aerodynamic designs that eschewed the chrome and excess of American luxury cars of the 1960s and 1970s. With a blend of luxury and performance, European manufacturers began to chip away at the high end of the market as America’s middle class expanded and found themselves with more discretionary income than they could have dreamed of a few years earlier.

Since Acura’s arrival in the United States in 1986, and a year later in Canada, Canadians have purchased around 500,000 vehicles of the brand. This number is impressive and shows that two characteristics are behind this bold ascension, namely the performance and the luxury that are at the rendezvous since the beginning of the adventure. At Acura Canada, all our vehicles are certified and rigorously inspected before being put on the market. Certified Acura means that the Japanese manufacturer does not skimp on anything and offers you what is best in terms of luxury and high performance vehicle.

Since 1986, Acura has come a long way. Initially launched on the North American market, the first Acura models were soon found on other continents and countries, especially China, Russia, Kuwait and also Mexico. We could ask ourselves this question: why not in Japan in the first place? The answer resides in the financial crisis of 2008, which shook this country and led the Japanese manufacturer to bet on other markets before launching its car in its own. This initiative has paid off, since Acura is now largely regarded as the leading brand of Japanese luxury cars out of the Japanese market.

Over the years, Acura has become a leader, easily competing in the North American market with local brands such as Cadillac and Lincoln, but also German ones such as Audi, BMW and Mercedes. But there is another characteristic that has marked the rise of this premium brand: Acura was able to foresee the potential in the US and Canadian markets.

In the 1990s, the Legend was the first model of this manufacturer, and it immediately conquered the market. Then, the NSX was a hit celebrated by thousands of consumers. The designers of the Acura NSX have done a fantastic job and nowadays, no one can doubt the many talents of the Japanese manufacturers’ personnel.

In the 2000s, innovations multiplied, showing the Japanese ingenuity at its best. Among the models we know and see every day on our roads, we can mention the Acura MDX, the Acura TSX, the Acura RDX and the TL and CL versions, which marked the entry on the market Honda’s first all-wheel drive and turbocharged engine.

But the story does not end with these models. Indeed, more recently we can see that the RLX, ILX and TLX models bring even more innovations in terms of design (LED headlights, more aerodynamic models, etc.) and mechanical engineering (with its twin turbo engines, 9-speed transmission with double gear, etc.)

If the past is any indication of the future, the Acura brand is there for many years, because Acura, has managed to stand out at every occasion for over thirty years. By its simple but yet avant-garde mechanics, the Acura brand is reliable, efficient and powerful. In addition, it produces beautiful and very luxurious cars.

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Nissan Silvia S13 JDM Japan

A Brief glance at some distance, and you could be forgiven for mistaking the Silvia S13 series for a Skyline R32. Coming closer though it becomes obvious that it is not “Godzilla” at all, but a smaller though potent imitator.

 The Silvia is well spec’d for performance with the powerful SR20 in later years variants, with the turbo version able to be modified to double the output at little cost.

The Nissan S13 Silvia, produced in 1988 for the 1989 model year, was offered with four-wheel steering, known as HICAS-II. The S13 was one of the first uses of Nissan’s multi-link rear suspension. The S13 also saw the introduction of a viscous-type limited slip differential for some models. The S13 Silvia used fixed headlights with the provision to change lamps as well as Projector optics as an option.


“Strawberry Face” S13 Silvia with the much later S15 Silvia Guards, bonnet and front panel clip.


S13 ‘Onevia’ with the 180SX Model front panels.


180SX  ‘Onevia’ with the S13 front panels


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Aussie Unique Cars mag Annual Japanese classic buyer guide

There’s a massive new edition of Unique Cars mag out now, number 454, JUNE 2021 – including your annual Japanese classic car value guide.

As with all guides, it includes pages of real-world data, put together by Unique Cars expert valuer, Cliff Chambers.

Cliff interviews four current Mitsubishi Starion Turbo owners about their ownership experiences over time with these classic iconic Japanese Turbo Cars over pages 136 to 145. This was a comprehensive followup from a previous article by Unique cars in issue #450 advising the Starion would be a Future Classic!

These few images of the Mitsubishi Starions owned by the four people in the article are nowhere as good as the many more originals in the Unique Cars magazine so I suggest you go and buy a copy to read for the full story. Also check out their official website on https://tradeuniquecars.com.au

As a Mitsubishi Starion owner since 1984 of one of the rare 1982 JA Models with a limited slip differential from the factory, I loved to get it around a race track as often as possible on club track days. The factory stock 2 litre 4G63BT Four cylinder Turbo engine performed fairly well and the suspension and Manual Five Speed proved its pedigree.

What many Aussies dont know is that the Mitsubishi Starion Turbo had quite a good record in the Bathurst Annual Mountain Top Race, coming inside first five places overall a few times against the majority of V8 competitors. The Starion of Brad Jones also held the Fastest Speed on the track for some time prior to the “Chase”.

The Mitsubishi Starion below is not part of the above article and images from the Unique Cars writeup in Issue 454 by Unique Cars expert valuer, Cliff Chambers.

The information below is by TurboClub article contributor “Flash” – Creator of the Starion Turbo Club – S.T.A.R.I.O.N.

Gregs Mitsubishi Starion Turbo JA 1982

With only 125 Kw @ 5500 RPM developing 245 Nm of Torque at 3500 RPM the Mitsubishi Starion 2 Ltr Turbo was no ball of fire, but ground breaking at the time of release in 1982.

Although it certainly had the engineering and chassis to handle a needed extensive power upgrade. I decided very early in ownership that it would be fairly easy to extract a lot more power cost effectively without upgrading the turbo initially by enhancing all air flow in and out of the motor. I achieved this by modifying all the piping and introducing an efficient Water to Air Inter-cooling system based on two modified motor cycle radiators and washing machine water circulation pump driven from the crankshaft.

Fairly agricultural setup, but engineered for efficient intake manifold air cooling from the factory turbocharger output. The boost was also increased by modification of the wastegate mechanism and the fuel pressure increased under higher boost by the introduction of a variable solenoid. The resulting power increase was what the Starion needed to really exploit the handling characteristics of the race proven chassis and suspension with the LSD.

With some tuning the Starion was able to max out at 240 KPH plus on racetracks with awesome acceleration out of corners heading many V8 competitors on track.

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